Bleach

Working with Bleach

• Pre-lightening is a process of removing natural pigments from the hair.

• Pre-lighteners have a high alkaline content, during processing it penetrates the cuticle and the hair structure is softened and the cuticle scales are opened.

• When the cuticles are opened the bleach can penetrate easily.

• The same as permanent colour, the lightening chemical process involves the addition of oxygen

Egwyddorion Cyn-YsgleuwyrPrinciples of Pre-lightening

• All natural hair colour is made up of varying proportions of black, brown, red and yellow colour pigments found within the cortex of the hair.

• There are two main types of hair pigment:

• Eumelanin – brown and black hair pigments

• Pheomelanin – red and yellow hair pigments

• When the cuticles are opened the bleach can penetrate easily.

• Inside the cortex the bleaching process releases oxygen and combines with the hairs natural colour pigments.

• This forms a new colour pigment that is colourless called Oxy-Melanin

• Every head of hair has common factors relating to natural colour.

• The melanin black/brown pigments are larger and easier to remove from the hair structure,
• These are lifted out quickly leaving the Pheomelanin red/yellow pigments

• Pheomelanin pigments are much smaller and are a lot more difficult to remove and often it takes a long time to get past this yellow stage
• The darker the natural colour pigment is more intense and the lightening process can prove to be difficult

• Pheomelanin pigments are much smaller and are a lot more difficult to remove and often it takes a long time to get past this yellow stage
• The darker the natural colour pigment is more intense and the lightening process can prove to be difficult

Colourless oxymelanin

Natural colour pigment

• Melanin (black and brown pigments) are oxidised more easily than pheomelanin (red and yellow),
• therefore the oxidisation process takes place in three stages:
• The black and brown pigments are oxidised.
• The red pigment is oxidised.
• The yellow pigment is oxidised
• By watching the colour changes that occur during the bleaching process, the sequence of oxidation may be easily seen.

Bleach bases and their corresponding depths

• The bleaching process releases oxygen and combines with the hairs natural colour pigments. This forms a new colour pigment that is colourless, What is this called?

• Over processing of bleach could result in what?

• What dangers are associated with the inhalation of powder bleach/lightener?

• What are the potential consequences of not following manufacturers instructions during mixing and development of bleach?

• . Pheomelanin colour pigments are?

• If the hair contains a large amount of Eumelanin colour pigments and the client would like to achieve light blonde colour, What would your action be?

• What precautions must be taken when using powder and other lighteners ?

• If a problem occurred when colouring/lightening hair that you could not resolve, what should your action be?

• What client factors have an impact on colouring/lightening services?