Salt Adventure Park
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Why is the sea salty ?
Sea salt comes from soil erosion. Around 4 billion years ago volcanoes were continually erupting on Earth. They released large quantities of gas as well as water vapour. Much later, as the Earth cooled, the water vapour condensed. It then started to rain. Thousands of square metres of water poured down on the Earth, carrying with it the various gases released by the volcanoes. This is known as acid rain. As this rain fell on the ground, it " eroded " the rocks. This is called "erosion". The acidic water ran off the Earth and created rivers, seas, and oceans.
Why is the sea salty ?
Through this process, the acidic water absorbed mineral salts and transported them to the final repository, which are the seas and oceans. Of course, there is a little salt present in river water. But since this water is continually renewed by rainfall, it will never become very salty. The ocean, on the other hand, is at the end of this long journey. Water and salt constantly accumulate there. But unlike salt, water evaporates to form clouds. So, there's the same level of water in the sea, but more and more salt!
The legend of the mill that milled at the bottom of the sea
One Christmas Eve, a man found himself so destitute, with nothing to eat or drink, that he went to pray at the door of the Gods, asking them to give him a few things to get him through the festive season. He prayed so hard that eventually his prayers were heard! A fairy appeared, and out of pity handed him a rather strange object: "Ask it for whatever you want, and it will grind it, but be careful! This object can be a blessing or a curse for anyone who doesn't know how to use it! After giving her instructions, the fairy disappeared, and the man hurried home with the precious object. Once home, the old man asked the mill to grind silver and gold. He had so much gold ground that he even had his house covered with it and its brightness could be seen as far as the sea.
The legend of the mill that milled at the bottom of the sea
One day, a captain enamoured by the brightness of the house asked the old man to sell him his magic mill. The old man already had more than he needed to live out his remaining years, so he sold the mill to the captain for several thousand crowns. Happy with his new purchase, the captain hurried off. He left in such a hurry that he didn't even bother to ask for instructions on how to use the magic object. Once far enough off the coast, he took the mill out of his bag: "I want salt, and I want it now! And immediately, the salt began to gush out. When the boat was full, the sailor wanted to stop it, but no matter how hard he tried, turning the object over and over, the salt just kept pouring out. It rose and rose and rose so high that in the end the ship sank...
The legend of the mill that milled at the bottom of the sea
Today, the mill is still at the bottom of the sea, still grinding, and it is said that this is why the water in the oceans is salty...
A simple magic word would have been enough to stop the object: "Thank you, little mill...".
The sea
This model shows the Pays d'Olonne, with the Marais d'Olonne on the left, and in the distance, the mainland, as well as the villages of Ile d'Olonne and Olonne sur Mer. You are currently on the l’île Vertome, an area of dunes more than 10km long. Behind you is the entrance to the Havre de la Gachère (at Brem sur mer). In front of you, in the southern part, is La Chaume and the town of Les Sables d'Olonne. The sea irrigates more than 1,400 hectares of marshland between Les Sables d'Olonne and Brem sur mer, which is known as the Marais d'Olonne. The sea is therefore the first element needed to make salt.
The clay soil
Several thousand years ago, the Gulf of Olonne separated the island of Vertome (l'île Vertome) from the mainland. Alluvial deposits carried by the Auzance and Vertonne rivers partially filled in the Gulf. Thousands of tonnes of clay several meters thick will reveal a huge mudflat at low tide. Men used this clay to build dykes to protect themselves from the high tides, and 2000 hectares of salt marshes were sculpted behind them. Clay is the 2nd element needed to make salt.
The sun
The basis idea behind salt marshes, is that salt water evaporates. During the summer months, when it is the hottest, the sun heats up the water, which then evaporates. The sun is therefore the 3rd element needed to make salt.
The video
The Olonne salt marshes have always been an additional source of income for the local market gardeners. In the past, salt was used to preserve food for both the sailors and farmers alike. However, it wasn't until 1985, after decades of neglect, that the Marais des Salines was taken over and restored to its former glory. To begin with, it was necessary to remove all the abandoned items and bring the marsh back to life. The techniques, the water, the sun, and the wind all still existed. The only thing that was missing was the desire to share and rediscover the magic of salt...
The video
Each year, it all starts with the spring tides in March, when the Saunier empties the marshes, which until then had been covered by water to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Once the paths have appeared, the dykes and "oeillets" must be cleaned up and given the right shape so that they can collect the salt. Once the cleaning is complete, the marsh needs to be refilled with salt water, especially the water reserve which is also used as a fish marsh. Being a Saunier (salt worker) is first and foremost knowing how to manage the water supply.
The video
Starting out from the water reserve, the saltwater needs to be distributed between the various evaporation basins. Small pipes called “Pompérias” supply each basin with salt water. The lowest of these basins are the "oeillets", where the salt is harvested. It takes 2 months of sunshine for the salt to appear. Today, the fleur de sel is harvested on the surface, whereas in the past, only the Saunière was granted this privilege . This fleur de sel does not touch the clay of the Marais, so it is very white. Once the fleur de sel has been harvested, the Saunier goes on to harvest the coarse salt in the evening. Using his "Simouche", he sweeps successive waves towards the centre of the basin. The crystals then roll and gather at the centre of the "oeillet". This process is called " L’Avironnage”.
The video
This operation is also used to wash it before it is harvested. The Saunier then takes his place on the widest part of the path and begins to gather the salt. Without damaging the bottom of the marsh, the salt is gently brought together into a pile, called a "pilot". Gathering the salt in this way allows it to drain overnight. The following morning, the Saunier takes the drained salt to the “Mulon” near the Salorge. This will allow it to dry out throughout the summer season, being exposed to both the sun and wind. It is only in the autumn that it is returned to the Salorge, where it is stored during the autumn and winter to protect it from bad weather conditions
The coef
The Coef
This elm wood drain, known as the "Coëf", is the original one, being around one thousand years old. Every winter, the marsh is flooded with brackish (salty) water to protect it from the harsh winter weather. In early spring, the water is drained through this "Coëf" like a hose. After this procedure, several straw and clay plugs close the pipe during the salt harvesting season.
The salorge
The Salorge
Here in front of you is "Le Salorge", where salt and fleur de sel are stored and protected until they are ready to be sold.
Did you know? The scientific name for salt is sodium chloride.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
We are on a waterway that for centuries has enabled boats to sail up the salt marshes or the "white gold" region of Olonne.
We're heading for the source of the salt water: the sea.As in days gone by, the sea flows over the entire Olonne salt marshes. In front of us is the Rocade floodgate, a passageway linking the Olonne region to the sea. Today, though proud of their maritime history, the people of Olonne seem to have forgotten their salt-making past.
This is where the sea becomes calmer as we set sail towards "La Route des Salines". In front of us, lies the Bay of Olonne, which has remained very much as it was since Roman times. The inlet was protected on the left by the Isle of Vertime, which was home to the boats sailing on the "Route de l'Etain"(Tin Road).
A boat for an extraordinary journey
The first port, Olonne sur Mer, is located on the right, tucked away at the end of the bay, at the foot of the Olonne hill. Trading ships and fishing boats found safe anchorages, near the hamlets on the edge of these calm waters. Over time, the Vertonne and Auzance Rivers have deposited clay sediments that have partially filled in the gulf. At low tide, you could see an immense expanse of mud. Men endeavoured to convert the marsh, reclaiming land from the sea by building large clay dykes. Thus protected from the tides, the first salt marshes were created.
Whose idea was this? It remains a mystery... It may have been the Romans.
However, around the year 1000, we know that monks from the abbeys of Sainte Croix de Talmont ,Bois Grolland and Saint Jean d'Orbestier had organised this vast hydraulic network.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
A new profession was born : that of the salt-worker (le saunier).
These people were primarily farmers and, as well as working the land, they learned to extract salt from the sea. Their work was a peaceful and unpaid occupation, and they lived in harmony with nature. The windy conditions and the sunny periods between June and September were vital for the evaporation of the sea water. This favourable climate, combined with the tenacity of the people of Olonnais, helped create one of the most successful local economies of the Middle Ages. In the 7th century, trade developed around the centre of Gaul, on the old Roman roads, the salt workers' paths, but also along the Loire, where large ships would come and go on a regular basis. A little later, salt transport opened up to the North Atlantic.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
Olonne supplied Ireland, Holland, Norway and even Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon (French islands off the coast of New France). Many merchant ships unloaded their ballast when they arrived in the port of Les Sables d'Olonne; these stones were used to protect the mud flats from being washed into the harbour by the waves. You can still see them lining the channel. History is all around us, close at hand, written in stone. In 1340, the unpopular "gabelle", or salt tax, was introduced. The cost varied between ten and twenty times the original price of salt. To prevent smuggling, the customs administration installed customs officers in the marshes to enforce this state monopoly.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
Salt smugglers were sent on slave ships, pursued, or killed in fights with customs officers. In the 17th century, the port of Les Sables supplied salt to the cod-fishing fleets of several countries. Before leaving for the fishing grounds off Newfoundland, around a hundred boats lined up, hull to hull, waiting for their cargo of salt, which was needed to preserve the fish they were going to catch. The old port of La Roulière, on our right, would have seen the heavy barges relaying the salt between the marsh and the ships. Much later, its inhabitants also began oyster farming in the basin that surrounds us.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
On either side of the marsh, you can see small hamlets such as la Girvière to the right, on the landward side, and l'Aubraie to the left, on the Vertime side. They have seen the peak of the salt industry, followed by the decline and virtual disappearance of the trade. Today, the new generation of workers are devoting themselves more intensely to their ancestors' first occupation: that of market gardening. When the tide rises, the sea invades the channel we are following (known here as "la ch'noue"), then the water makes its way through the network of secondary channels known as "cordes". They supply the salt marshes with water during the season and bring in saltwater fish. This is where the work of the salt worker begins, directing the water towards the evaporation basins.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
We are near the Olonne forest, which covers two-thirds of the island of Vertime. In the past, the barren dune was dotted with spindly, shallow-rooted holm oaks. Under the impact of the high winds, the dune itself moved in slow but constant waves. It continued like this until the 18th century when the hamlets of Parisse and Montauban disappeared, swallowed up under the sand. It wasn't until 1839 that the authorities began planting maritime pines and other vegetation, including marram grass (ammophilia), a hardy and resistant plant that has stabilised the dune. Today, roe deer and wild boar roam freely in the heart of the forest. During the last century, in the peaceful Mireille Oasis, , stood the « Chalet Mireille », a busy open-air cafe where people could go on Sundays to cross the salt marshes by boat or on foot.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
The decline of the Olonne salt industry dates from the middle of the 19th century. With the development of the railways came competition from the salt-producing regions of Southern France and the salt mines, which meant that the Olonne region was unable to compete with their industrial methods of salt extraction. After they were abandoned, the salt marshes were transformed into ponds for fish farming. Although they didn't know much about science, the people of the marshes have always known how to observe nature acutely. They also learnt to exploit and profit from the fish that swim upstream. In the old salt marshes, they dug pits.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
These had to be around two metres deep to prevent the water overheating in the summer and to protect the fish from freezing in the winter. The fish farmers also had to clean the marshes to rid them of the silt that had settled there and to remove the algae that invaded the surface and the depths. The Olonne marsh is a vast fish-feeding area covering 1,400 hectares, with plankton, shrimp, and earthworms allowing the fish to fatten up in these basins known as "vasas". The fish do not reproduce in these enclosures, so it is necessary to capture fish on a permanent basis using traps installed in the sluices that allow fish brought in by the tides to enter. In winter these are eels, in summer red mullet, perch and bream. A few years later, the adult fish are caught, either by sluice traps or by nets.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
Typical salt marsh vegetation grows at the foot of the banks. These salt-loving plants include the most common: • obione, whose bluish-green strands protect the base of the embankment. • artemesia maritima, or sea wormwood, used by our great-grandmothers as a cure for worms. • Salicorne, or samphire Glasswort, an excellent condiment that salt workers harvest in June and pickle in vinegar, like gherkins. • At the top of the banks, a few holm oaks and finally, whipped by the sea breeze, the tamarin or tamarisk. The salt river follows its course, and after passing through the marsh it meets the sea again at le Havre de la Gachere.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
The canals offer plenty of options for canoeing, starting from the village of l’Aubraie, where you can really get away from it all in the heart of nature. Lost in the marshes, on the landward side, in a few moments, we shall catch a glimpse of the village of Olonne sur Mer which was the original Roman port. Today, it bears witness to the link between two communities: that of the salt workers and that of the fishermen. Now it's time to experience the magic of the marsh. An osprey takes flight behind a thicket, showing us the beauty of its wingspan. The cries of the birds in the distance barely disturb the silence. The water laps softly. Everything is quiet here. Nature takes her time.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
We're going to stop for a moment to look at one of the last working salt pans in the Pays d’ Olonne region. The saltmarsh is composed of two parts :
-A water reserve
-In front of us, clay basins.
The salt-worker lets water in from the canal and allows it to flow around (In the direction of the white, blue, green, and red arrows) as if it is gently trickling down a series of steps. Meanwhile, the sun and wind evaporate the water, leaving an ever-increasing concentration of salt. This increases tenfold, from 30 grams (1 ounce) per litre (i.e. seawater) to 300 grams (10.5 ounces) per litre at the point of crystallisation.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
(If heavy rain falls, it dilutes the salty water and the whole process needs to be started again.) The harvesting is carried out in the lowest basins, called “oeillets”. Salt first appears on the surface. This first salt is called “fleur de sel” (flower of salt) and is always very white. Next comes the grey cooking salt called “sel gris” which lies underneath, on the clay bed.
With a long-handled tool called a “simouche” the salt-worker pulls the salt on to the “maître chemin” (the edge of the basin) where it drains during the night. The next day it will be piled up to form a “mulon”, or pyramid of salt. Olonne salt is collected during the warmer months, from June to September. In winter the salt is stocked in shelters called “salorges”, and the salt marsh is submerged under 50 cm (20 inches) of water.
The wind
Exposed in thin layers over the clay of the salt marshes, the sea water heats up in the sun, and is transformed into water vapour, which later becomes clouds with the help of the wind. The wind is therefore the 4th element needed to make salt.
Meeting with the salt worker
The salt marsh is composed of two parts : - A water reserve
- Infront of us, clay basins.
The salt worker lets water in from the canal and allows it to flow around (In the direction of the white, blue, green and red arrows) as if it is gently trickling down a series of steps. Meanwhile, the sun and wind evaporate the water, leaving an ever-increasing concentration of salt. This increases tenfold, from 30 grams (1 ounce) per litre (i.e sea water) to 300 grams (10.5 ounces) per litre at the point of crystallisation. (If heavy rain falls, it dilutes the salty water and the whole process needs to be started again.)
Meeting with the salt worker
The harvesting is carried out in the lowest basins, called "oeillets". Salt first appears on the surface. This first salt is called "fleur de sel" (flower of salt) and is always very white. Next comes the grey cooking salt called "sel gris" which lies underneath, on the clay bed. With a long-handled tool called a "simouche" the salt-worker pulls the salt on to the "maître chemin" (the edge of the basin) where it drains during the night. The next day it will be piled up to form a "mulon", or a pyramid of salt. Olonne salt is collected during the warmer months, from June to Septembre.
Meeting with the salt worker
In winter the salt is stoked in shelters called "salorges" and the salt marsh is submerged under 50 cm (20 inches) of water. At the end of the commentary, children can go down to the salt works and harvest their own salt !
Salt and the human body
Life began in the salty environment of the primitive ocean and the long evolution of species led to the first hominids, some eight million years ago. Our distant ancestors must have felt a real "hunger for salt" at certain points in their history. Salt, the condiment par excellence and a vital substance, probably played a major role in the long evolution of the human species. Salt is naturally present in the human body at about 5 grams per litre of blood, the highest concentration of any other mineral substance.
Salt and the human body
Every day, as part of our bodily functions (kidneys, sweating), we eliminate the mineral salts that are necessary for our overall health. Each day, we consume an average of 15 grams of salt, even though 5 to 6 grams would be enough for us to live on. Half of our salt intake comes from our food.Anyone denied salt would see their body wither away. In the Middle Ages, the old Dutch laws sentenced convicted criminals to live without salt in prison. The unfortunate prisoners died after four months in excruciating pain. Some prisoners were reduced to cutting their wrists to drink their own blood.
Prehistory
The Palaeolithic period
Man, gradually became a hunter, feeding mainly on raw meat. It was with this food and the bood of their prey that they maintained their mineral balance.
The Neolithic period
At the end of the ice age, which lasted 40.000 years, there were changes in the organisation of human groups. The climates became milder, and forest expanded. During this period, people began to build villages, started raising livestock and growing crops. Salt was used not only for preserving but also to give flavour to foods.
The gauls
To collect salt, the Gauls used salt ovens to evaporate sea water. The sea water was stored in clay pots, heated over a log fire. All that remained after water had evaporated were lumps of salt. This technique is known as "Briquetage". This method enable salt to be produced all year round but required a great deal of wood from the forests. We have discovered that each region used its own technique but with very diffrent names, but the principle remained the same.
The menhir
The word "menhir" comes from the Latin "maen" meaning "stone" and "hir" meaning "long". A menhir is therefore a long stone planted vertically in the ground. They can be found in Africa and Asia, but above all in Western Europe, where they were erected in the Neolithic period (between 6000 and 3000 BC). Almost nothing is known about the social organisation and beliefs of the people who erected these stones in the ground. These civilisations grew cereals, and it is believed that certain menhirs were associated with seasonal fertility rituals. Individually, these stones were used as markers indicating a watering place or a grave. However, when they were aligned from east to west or arranged in a circle, they were certainly used to worship the Sun and Moon. Over the centuries, they have undoubtably been used for other purposes. It is said that the druids used them for sacrifices. They would also have been primitive calendars.
The romans
In Rome, salt was used as a form of payment and a barter currency. The ration of salt given to legionaries as pay was called "salarius", hence the word "salary". The Roman invasion brought several innovations to Gaul : Latin, vines, roof tiles and our salt marshes.
The value of salt
In Asia and Africa, the price of salt was equivalent to that of gold. In some African contries, a slave was exchanged for a slab of salt the length of his foot.
The gabelle
The word "gabelle" comes from the Arabic "Kabala" meaning tax, no doubt a reminder of the Saracen invasion of the 8th century. This tax on salt was introduced in 1340 and lasted for 600 years, ending in 1945. This complicated and unfair taxation system led to restrictions and violent revolts. In 1781, thousands of smugglers were sent to the gallows for smuggling a few kilos of salt. The history of salt is deeply linked to the history of France.
The fisherman's hut
The Carrelet
The carrelet is a net of a few square meters stretched over a flat frame and lowered horizontally by means of a winch. After waiting for a few minutes, the net is hauled up quickly, trapping any fish between it and the surface. The bait consists of crushed mussels mixted with sand which is thrown into the middle of the net.
The fisherman's hut
The Nasse or creel
Is a cage with a rigid frame made of wicker, wire, metal or plastic mesh, with a square, rectancular, diamond shaped or hexagonal meshes. It has one or more entries and numerous hooks (anchons), to prevent the fish from turning back. The hooks guide the fish to the bottom of the net, where it is retrieved by the fisherman. The creel can sometimes be weighted, baited and used for fishing on its own or in a line, with the fisherman dropping it in to the bottom of the water and returning several hours or days later to retrieve his catch.
The fisherman's hut
The Foëne or "Salais"
(A term used in this region) is a harpoon with a long handle ending in several pointed branches, sometimes made of barbed wire which form a wide "comb". It is used to catch flatfish or large fish, particularly when fishing on foot, and generally in shallow waters. It handle can ba fitted with a cord, so that it can be brought back after being thrown at the fish. The foëne is particularly popular for eel fishing during the winter, in the holes in the marshes. With its many teeth (seven, for exemple, or even nine), the foëne makes it easy to capture this fish, which is so difficult to catch.
The fisherman's hut
The Tamis à Civelle (A glass eel sieve)
As the elver is too small to bite on a hook, it cannot be caught with just any kind of tool. The only way to catch it is with an elver sieve. All you need to do is spot a shoal of glass eels and, using the sieve, make a gentle upward movement from the bottom of the water to the surface so that you can catch enough. The term "glass eel" refers to the juveniles (larvae) stage of the species. Being able to live in the sea as well as in freshwater, the glass eel is even capable of moving on land ! They enter the marshes when they arrive on our coasts from the Sargasso Sea in winter and spring.
The various fish
The eel :
Throughout its life, the eel will live in 2 different environments: the ocean and continental waters (freshwater). To adapt as best it can to each of these habitats it will go through several extraordinary stages of transformation.
This animal remains a mystery to this day, and the reasons for its migrations are still unknown. Crossing the oceans and mating at depths of up to 300 metres, no-one has ever been able to observe eels mating, let alone their nesting grounds... What's more, the place where they are born, mate and die is right in the heart of the famous Bermuda triangle...
The various fish
La dorade (Sea bream) :
Sea bream is a bony fish that lives in the Mediterranean, on the west coast (France) and off the coast of England. The average weight of a sea bream is 1.5 kg, however le pagrus (bluespotted seabream) can reach up to 10 kg. Although they can be found in our coastal waters, Sea bream spend their lives on the seabed, where they prefer areas of gravel, reefs, and wrecks. As adults, sea bream feed on small fish, bivalve molluscs, crustaceans, sea urchins and worms. Sea bream are born male and then transform into female fish (hermaphrodites).
The various fish
Le bar (Sea bass) :
This fish is found in the Northern Atlantic, stretching from Morocco to the Baltic Sea as well as in the Mediterranean, where it is known as the "wolf". It is easy to recognise thanks to its two distinctive dorsal fins, the first of which is entirely spiny. This fish adapts to almost all salinities and can live in fresh water only if it does not stay there for too long. The reproduction period takes place only in the sea. Sea bass cannot reproduce in marshland because the low salt content and with the drop in winter temperatures are prevented from developing normally. Sea bass grow more rapidly in the marshes, which offer better salinity conditions than those of the open sea.
The various fish
Le mulet (Mullet) :
They live in the Eastern Atlantic, the English Channel, the Bay of Biscay and along the Mediterranean coast. Despite its poor resistance to the cold, the mullet adapts very well to high temperatures. Low temperatures make them sensitive to sudden changes in salinity. Like sea bass, the mullet does not reproduce in the marshes.
The various fish
Le carrelet (Carrelet) :
or plaice can be found off our coasts, from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. Easily recognisable by its diamond shape, its flat greenish-brown body dotted with orange spots and its two eyes located on the right-hand side. It lives on sandy sea beds at depths of up to 200 metres. Like the gilthead bream, the carrelet prefers deep-water animals such as worms and crustaceans, which it seeks out mainly at night.
The story of "Camille the eel"
Hello ! My name is Camille and i'm an eel. I live in the Marais des Salines, and you may have spotted me at the bottom of the water or in the mud. I like dark places away from the light. Today i'm going to tell you my incredible story and that of my parents... I knew them, but the history of my species has taught me about the fabulous journey they undertook ! They grew up in the Marais des Salines. After 10 years, the call of Sargasso Sea prompted. First my dad, then my mom, to undertake a long journey across the Atlantic Ocean to reach this paradisiac sea. To adapt to the Ocean and confront its many predators, my parents underwent a transformation!
The story of "Camille the eel"
Their skin grew stronger and changed colour, their eyes grew bigger, and they transformed into silver Eels. After more than 6 months in deep waters, they arrived in the Sargasso Sea. This is where they met and fell in love. More than 1000 eggs were the result of their love ! Sadly, that's where my parents' lives came to an end after they had given... Orphaned, I hatched as a larva known as an "eptocephalus" and carried by the currents of the Gulf Stream, I migrated for 3 years over more than 6000 km to reach the fresh waters of Europe's rivers and marshes. To adapt to these new waters, I also changed! Starting out as a little elver, I made my way up the currents of the estuaries and rivers before finally arriving in the Marais!
The story of "Camille the eel"
There, hidden in the mud, safe ffrom predators (herons and cormorants), I grew up to become a beautiful yellow eel ! I've been living here for almost 11 years now, and I love it very much, but the Sargasso Sea is calling me to set out on the same jouney as my parents did. I was born there and I'm going back there to ensure the future of my species... I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to this ! I'll probably never see you again unless you're sailing in deep water ! But who knows, maybe one day you'll get the chance to meet my chlidren...
The fish trap
The Lock :
The lock just in front of you doubles up as a fish trap. Mesh funnels in the lock make it easier for fish to enter and become trapped on the marsh.
The Tiocs:
The fish marsh requires some maintenance every 4 years. All the fish will be caught. 4 sauniers are at work. Holes in the dykes wil be used to distribute the catch. The largest receives all the fish. This catch is then divided into 4 small holes called "Tiocs". At the end, the holes are randomly chosen by a child. This approch enabled the Sauniers to work together and ensure the proper upkeep of the Marais à poissons (salt marsh water reserve).
Salt and sailors
Preserving salt : to catch Cod, sailors spent 6 months at sea on the banks off Newfoundland. To preserve the fish, they covered it with salt.
The Nautical Mile is equal to
1852 m
This is the race that takes place every 4 years from Les Sables d'Olonne. Nicknamed single-handed round-the-world yacht race. The winner of the 2020 edition is Yannick Bestaven. When returning from the fishing grounds, there were two types of salt: "new salt" and "old salt". The "new salt" had been taken on board, but unfortunately had not been used, either because of poor fishing or for some other reason that had forced the boat to turn back. The fishermen said that this salt was of poor quality, and many had lost their cargo for having taken the same salt on board a second time.
The Vendee Globe :
Sailors and salt :
Salt and sailors
They claimed that the deterioration of this salt resulted from it having been stirred up and that the grains broken, due to its loading and unloading from the boat. However, this has not been confirmed and does not mean that it is true. The "old salt" was what had been used to load the cod. When the piles of fish were unloaded, some of the salt came off and could be re-used. The Port of Olonne, one of the largest cod fishing ports in France
The Port of Olonne was at the height of its cod-fishing boom between 1660 and 1720. And in 1690 the La Chaume district alone, equipped 40 ships for the Newfoundland.
Salt and sailors
In 1725, there were 73 (120-to-200-ton) cod boats in the port of Les Sables: 4 were under construction, 5 were being refitted and 64 would leave on “bounty” trips to Newfoundland during the first few months of the year. An estimated 1,500 sailors from Olonne embarked on these boats. However, by 1755, only 44 ships left the port of Les Sables for Newfoundland.
The quays were no less busy, however, as many ships were also engaged in the coastal trade in salt, wheat and wine between Bordeaux and Nantes.
In fact, for several centuries, these two worlds, the sailors, and the salt producer's, were closely connected, much to the delight of both communities.
Salt and sailors
After battling storms and headwinds, the sailors finally arrive at the fishing zone. Here they fish in 2 different ways: The ships were de-rigged and anchored off the coast of Newfoundland. The crew, from 20 to 50 men, lived ashore in huts. Every morning, the sailors set off in rowing boats sailed by 3 of them. In the evening, they unloaded the day's catch. The cod was salted and dried on land, losing 3/4 of its weight. This was carried out offshore on the banks. Ships would leave for a 6-to-7-month fishing season with crews of 20 to 30 men. Fishing techniques evolved over time.
Sedentary fishing :
Wandering or "green" fishing :
Salt and sailors
At first, fishermen drew lines along the deck of the ship, then at the beginning of the 18th century, they drew lines from rowing boats or dories, flat-bottomed boats that were more easily manoeuvred and easy to stack on the deck. Once the boat had arrived on the banks, the dories were put out to sea with two crewmen who fished all day with drifting lines. Once the boat had arrived on the banks, the dories were put out to sea with two crewmen who fished all day with drifting lines. Sometimes they would get lost in the fog, so the mother ship would ring the ship’s bell using a specific code to that the lost sailors would recognise it. Finally, the cod was gutted, salted, and stored on board the ship. Sailors could stay at sea for more than 6 months and only returned to Les Sables d’Olonne once the holds were full.
The towpath
The dyke you are walking on was once used as a towpath. Towage is a method of pulling boats along a river or canal by means of a rope pulled either by hand or by a horse. After loading salt at Le Tasselier, La Gabare was towed along this path to reach the windier areas of the Chenal (channel), enabling it to sail to the port of Les Sables d'Olonne. There, the sailors transferred their cargoes aboard the Caboteurs and Bricks Morutiers. Much of the salt from the Marais d'Olonne was shipped by sea.
The towpath
The tasseliers :
The place where you are standing now used to be a "Tasselier". At a time when the salt trade and cod fishing were at their peak, the Tasseliers, located on the outskirts of the salt marshes, served as a storage area between the marshes and the Chenal (channel). The salt harvested there was laid out in the form of Mulon and then carried by hand in the Gabares and Bricks Morutiers. Ships coming from the port of Les Sables d'Olonne could stop here and be loaded directly with salt for the next fishing season.
The salt marsh plants
Salicorn :
Samphire, sea asparagus: These are low, bushy annual plants. There are more than 30 different species of glasswort. It is a salt-loving plant, living in the immediate vicinity of salt water and, more specifically, along the small embankments that funnel the water into the salt marshes. It is still used to produce plant-based soda ash, which was once used to make soap and
which even today is still used to make Aleppo soap. The plant is also edible and can be eaten raw or cooked! The best time to harvest and eat this plant is from June to July.
Salines' tip : Raw, its flavour resembles that of a gherkin, making it ideal with raw vegetables or cold meats. To eat it cooked, fry it in butter and serve it with red meat or an omelette.
The salt marsh plants
Obione :
Halimione portulacoides: is an evergreen shrub growing from 20cm to over a metre in height. Its tough, thick, fleshy foliage comes in grey-green, ashy, or silvery shades. Obione is a plant adapted to an environment with a high concentration of salt. It is therefore common to find it growing in colonies at the bottom of bays, in salt marshes, on rocks by the sea or in dunes. It flowers throughout the summer, producing a multitude of small spikes of yellowish flowers. Obione can withstand wind, sea spray, temporary flooding, drought, and cold, withstanding temperatures as low as -15°C. Salines' tip : The crunchy, fleshy leaves of the Obione are edible and can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, the most common being as crisps with a touch of fleur de sel, in salads or with fish.
The salt marsh plants
La soude maritime :
Suaeda maritima herbaceous seepweed: A herbaceous plant found in damp, salty environments, sodium hydroxide and has distinctive semi-cylindrical needle-shaped leaves. It flowers from July to October. It is a halophilous plant, living only in salty coastal soils and salt marshes. In the past, this plant was used to make 'lessit', a concoction obtained by boiling a mixture of salt-loving plants and vine shoots in a canvas bag. The final product was then used as washing powder or soap.
It was also used in the glass industry and is occasionally eaten as a condiment.
Les Salines' tip : Try it in a little garlic, parsley and fleur de sel - it's delicious!
The salt marsh plants
L'inule maritime:
(Inule visqueuse -Dittrichia viscosa – known as woody fleabane). This plant is a subshrub with simple, stiff stems that form clumps.
It can grow up to 1 metre high.
Its flowers are hermaphroditic. They thrive on sea-sprayed coastlines in wet (hygrophilous) soils such as salt meadows, lagoons, and salt marshes. The young leaves of this plant are edible.
Les Salines' tip : Enjoy it as a condiment with a salad, raw vegetables and a dash of fleur de sel.
The Birds
Migration
When autumn arrives, migratory birds head down to Africa. This allows them to spend the winter in the warmth of their homeland, before returning the following spring.
Les Salines : a paradise for birds
At Les Salines, we encourage migratory birds to nest by building islets in the old salt marshes around you. Avocettes (avocets (Recurvirostra) and les échasses (black-winged stilts - Himantopus himantopus) bring a few twigs and build their nests there.
They take great care to protect their eggs from predators such as gulls and muskrats.
They lay around 3 or 4 eggs per nest. Once hatched, the young scatter and quickly start eating. They are then said to be "Nidifuges", as they leave the nest shortly after hatching or birth, unlike the species known as "Nidicoles". Once a year, the French League for the Protection of Birds comes to ring these little avocets, whose family name is "SALINES".
The Birds
MARSH BIRDS IN AUTUMN AND WINTER
Hibou des marais :
(Short-eared owl - Asio flammeus) This owl is diurnal, contrary to popular belief. It hunts by day and feeds mainly on voles, small rats, and mice. You can observe it in open areas, usually high up, watching for its next prey.
The Cygne :
(Swan – Cygnus): This bird comes from far away, spending the rest of the year between Eastern Europe and Asia, before coming to spend its winter in the warmer western hemisphere. You can find it on ponds and stretches of water feeding on marine vegetation, grass, and small invertebrates.
The Birds
La Becassine des marais :
(Common snipe - Gallinago gallinago). This bird also comes from Eastern to Europe and migrates to Western Europe in winter! This bird searches marshy waters for small animal prey, which it finds by probing the mud.
MARSH BIRDS IN SPRING AND SUMMER
le Chevalier Gambette :
((Common redshank - Tringa tetanus)
L'échasse blanche :
(Black-winged Himantopus himantopus): Often seen in the shallow waters of the Marshes where worms, molluscs, and other insect’s nest. With their long beaks, these birds can easily turn over mud or even seaweed to find their food!
The Birds
La Mouette rieuse :
(Black-headed gull -Chroicocephalus ridibundus): This shy species is very opportunistic! An omnivore, it feeds on worms and small insects found in the marshes, but also plants and household waste! They can be found wherever food is abundant, including in towns and cities. Be careful, they're real thieves !
L'hirondelle:
(Swallows - Hirundinidae): Swallows are birds that like to hunt in the air, feeding on small insects flying over the shallow waters of the marshes. They like to nest under the eaves of old buildings such as the Salorge.
The Birds
BIRD ON SITE ALL YEAR ROUND
Avocettes :
(Avocets - Recurvirostra) These birds are migratory, most spend the winter in Africa or southern Asia. A few, however, overwinter in France and Spain.
Le Canard colvert :
(Mallard or wild duck - Anasplatyrhynchos): This duck is a member of the dabbling family of ducks and prefers to feed on the surface or in shallow water. It lives on fish and grass, seeds, frogs, and insects, making the marshes the ideal place to live all year round!
The Birds
Héron cendré :
(Ardea cinerea) and Busard des roseaux (Western marsh harrier -Circus aeruginosus):These two species can be seen in the channels and fish marshes. This predator loves fish-filled waters, and can spot its prey from a distance, often attacking large fish such as bass and eels, as well as small rodents or other prey on land. The marsh is an ideal place for these species, providing them with an abundance of food all year round.
WE HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED YOUR VISIT TO LE PARC D’AVENTURE DU SEL. WE THANK YOU FOR YOUR VISIT AND WE LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOU SOON AT LES SALINES
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Salt Adventure Park Translation
LES SALINES en Bateau
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Transcript
Salt Adventure Park
Translation
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WELCOME TO THE SALT ADVENTURE PARK
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Why is the sea salty ?
Sea salt comes from soil erosion. Around 4 billion years ago volcanoes were continually erupting on Earth. They released large quantities of gas as well as water vapour. Much later, as the Earth cooled, the water vapour condensed. It then started to rain. Thousands of square metres of water poured down on the Earth, carrying with it the various gases released by the volcanoes. This is known as acid rain. As this rain fell on the ground, it " eroded " the rocks. This is called "erosion". The acidic water ran off the Earth and created rivers, seas, and oceans.
Why is the sea salty ?
Through this process, the acidic water absorbed mineral salts and transported them to the final repository, which are the seas and oceans. Of course, there is a little salt present in river water. But since this water is continually renewed by rainfall, it will never become very salty. The ocean, on the other hand, is at the end of this long journey. Water and salt constantly accumulate there. But unlike salt, water evaporates to form clouds. So, there's the same level of water in the sea, but more and more salt!
The legend of the mill that milled at the bottom of the sea
One Christmas Eve, a man found himself so destitute, with nothing to eat or drink, that he went to pray at the door of the Gods, asking them to give him a few things to get him through the festive season. He prayed so hard that eventually his prayers were heard! A fairy appeared, and out of pity handed him a rather strange object: "Ask it for whatever you want, and it will grind it, but be careful! This object can be a blessing or a curse for anyone who doesn't know how to use it! After giving her instructions, the fairy disappeared, and the man hurried home with the precious object. Once home, the old man asked the mill to grind silver and gold. He had so much gold ground that he even had his house covered with it and its brightness could be seen as far as the sea.
The legend of the mill that milled at the bottom of the sea
One day, a captain enamoured by the brightness of the house asked the old man to sell him his magic mill. The old man already had more than he needed to live out his remaining years, so he sold the mill to the captain for several thousand crowns. Happy with his new purchase, the captain hurried off. He left in such a hurry that he didn't even bother to ask for instructions on how to use the magic object. Once far enough off the coast, he took the mill out of his bag: "I want salt, and I want it now! And immediately, the salt began to gush out. When the boat was full, the sailor wanted to stop it, but no matter how hard he tried, turning the object over and over, the salt just kept pouring out. It rose and rose and rose so high that in the end the ship sank...
The legend of the mill that milled at the bottom of the sea
Today, the mill is still at the bottom of the sea, still grinding, and it is said that this is why the water in the oceans is salty... A simple magic word would have been enough to stop the object: "Thank you, little mill...".
The sea
This model shows the Pays d'Olonne, with the Marais d'Olonne on the left, and in the distance, the mainland, as well as the villages of Ile d'Olonne and Olonne sur Mer. You are currently on the l’île Vertome, an area of dunes more than 10km long. Behind you is the entrance to the Havre de la Gachère (at Brem sur mer). In front of you, in the southern part, is La Chaume and the town of Les Sables d'Olonne. The sea irrigates more than 1,400 hectares of marshland between Les Sables d'Olonne and Brem sur mer, which is known as the Marais d'Olonne. The sea is therefore the first element needed to make salt.
The clay soil
Several thousand years ago, the Gulf of Olonne separated the island of Vertome (l'île Vertome) from the mainland. Alluvial deposits carried by the Auzance and Vertonne rivers partially filled in the Gulf. Thousands of tonnes of clay several meters thick will reveal a huge mudflat at low tide. Men used this clay to build dykes to protect themselves from the high tides, and 2000 hectares of salt marshes were sculpted behind them. Clay is the 2nd element needed to make salt.
The sun
The basis idea behind salt marshes, is that salt water evaporates. During the summer months, when it is the hottest, the sun heats up the water, which then evaporates. The sun is therefore the 3rd element needed to make salt.
The video
The Olonne salt marshes have always been an additional source of income for the local market gardeners. In the past, salt was used to preserve food for both the sailors and farmers alike. However, it wasn't until 1985, after decades of neglect, that the Marais des Salines was taken over and restored to its former glory. To begin with, it was necessary to remove all the abandoned items and bring the marsh back to life. The techniques, the water, the sun, and the wind all still existed. The only thing that was missing was the desire to share and rediscover the magic of salt...
The video
Each year, it all starts with the spring tides in March, when the Saunier empties the marshes, which until then had been covered by water to protect them from the harsh winter weather. Once the paths have appeared, the dykes and "oeillets" must be cleaned up and given the right shape so that they can collect the salt. Once the cleaning is complete, the marsh needs to be refilled with salt water, especially the water reserve which is also used as a fish marsh. Being a Saunier (salt worker) is first and foremost knowing how to manage the water supply.
The video
Starting out from the water reserve, the saltwater needs to be distributed between the various evaporation basins. Small pipes called “Pompérias” supply each basin with salt water. The lowest of these basins are the "oeillets", where the salt is harvested. It takes 2 months of sunshine for the salt to appear. Today, the fleur de sel is harvested on the surface, whereas in the past, only the Saunière was granted this privilege . This fleur de sel does not touch the clay of the Marais, so it is very white. Once the fleur de sel has been harvested, the Saunier goes on to harvest the coarse salt in the evening. Using his "Simouche", he sweeps successive waves towards the centre of the basin. The crystals then roll and gather at the centre of the "oeillet". This process is called " L’Avironnage”.
The video
This operation is also used to wash it before it is harvested. The Saunier then takes his place on the widest part of the path and begins to gather the salt. Without damaging the bottom of the marsh, the salt is gently brought together into a pile, called a "pilot". Gathering the salt in this way allows it to drain overnight. The following morning, the Saunier takes the drained salt to the “Mulon” near the Salorge. This will allow it to dry out throughout the summer season, being exposed to both the sun and wind. It is only in the autumn that it is returned to the Salorge, where it is stored during the autumn and winter to protect it from bad weather conditions
The coef
The Coef
This elm wood drain, known as the "Coëf", is the original one, being around one thousand years old. Every winter, the marsh is flooded with brackish (salty) water to protect it from the harsh winter weather. In early spring, the water is drained through this "Coëf" like a hose. After this procedure, several straw and clay plugs close the pipe during the salt harvesting season.
The salorge
The Salorge
Here in front of you is "Le Salorge", where salt and fleur de sel are stored and protected until they are ready to be sold. Did you know? The scientific name for salt is sodium chloride.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
We are on a waterway that for centuries has enabled boats to sail up the salt marshes or the "white gold" region of Olonne. We're heading for the source of the salt water: the sea.As in days gone by, the sea flows over the entire Olonne salt marshes. In front of us is the Rocade floodgate, a passageway linking the Olonne region to the sea. Today, though proud of their maritime history, the people of Olonne seem to have forgotten their salt-making past. This is where the sea becomes calmer as we set sail towards "La Route des Salines". In front of us, lies the Bay of Olonne, which has remained very much as it was since Roman times. The inlet was protected on the left by the Isle of Vertime, which was home to the boats sailing on the "Route de l'Etain"(Tin Road).
A boat for an extraordinary journey
The first port, Olonne sur Mer, is located on the right, tucked away at the end of the bay, at the foot of the Olonne hill. Trading ships and fishing boats found safe anchorages, near the hamlets on the edge of these calm waters. Over time, the Vertonne and Auzance Rivers have deposited clay sediments that have partially filled in the gulf. At low tide, you could see an immense expanse of mud. Men endeavoured to convert the marsh, reclaiming land from the sea by building large clay dykes. Thus protected from the tides, the first salt marshes were created. Whose idea was this? It remains a mystery... It may have been the Romans. However, around the year 1000, we know that monks from the abbeys of Sainte Croix de Talmont ,Bois Grolland and Saint Jean d'Orbestier had organised this vast hydraulic network.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
A new profession was born : that of the salt-worker (le saunier). These people were primarily farmers and, as well as working the land, they learned to extract salt from the sea. Their work was a peaceful and unpaid occupation, and they lived in harmony with nature. The windy conditions and the sunny periods between June and September were vital for the evaporation of the sea water. This favourable climate, combined with the tenacity of the people of Olonnais, helped create one of the most successful local economies of the Middle Ages. In the 7th century, trade developed around the centre of Gaul, on the old Roman roads, the salt workers' paths, but also along the Loire, where large ships would come and go on a regular basis. A little later, salt transport opened up to the North Atlantic.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
Olonne supplied Ireland, Holland, Norway and even Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon (French islands off the coast of New France). Many merchant ships unloaded their ballast when they arrived in the port of Les Sables d'Olonne; these stones were used to protect the mud flats from being washed into the harbour by the waves. You can still see them lining the channel. History is all around us, close at hand, written in stone. In 1340, the unpopular "gabelle", or salt tax, was introduced. The cost varied between ten and twenty times the original price of salt. To prevent smuggling, the customs administration installed customs officers in the marshes to enforce this state monopoly.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
Salt smugglers were sent on slave ships, pursued, or killed in fights with customs officers. In the 17th century, the port of Les Sables supplied salt to the cod-fishing fleets of several countries. Before leaving for the fishing grounds off Newfoundland, around a hundred boats lined up, hull to hull, waiting for their cargo of salt, which was needed to preserve the fish they were going to catch. The old port of La Roulière, on our right, would have seen the heavy barges relaying the salt between the marsh and the ships. Much later, its inhabitants also began oyster farming in the basin that surrounds us.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
On either side of the marsh, you can see small hamlets such as la Girvière to the right, on the landward side, and l'Aubraie to the left, on the Vertime side. They have seen the peak of the salt industry, followed by the decline and virtual disappearance of the trade. Today, the new generation of workers are devoting themselves more intensely to their ancestors' first occupation: that of market gardening. When the tide rises, the sea invades the channel we are following (known here as "la ch'noue"), then the water makes its way through the network of secondary channels known as "cordes". They supply the salt marshes with water during the season and bring in saltwater fish. This is where the work of the salt worker begins, directing the water towards the evaporation basins.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
We are near the Olonne forest, which covers two-thirds of the island of Vertime. In the past, the barren dune was dotted with spindly, shallow-rooted holm oaks. Under the impact of the high winds, the dune itself moved in slow but constant waves. It continued like this until the 18th century when the hamlets of Parisse and Montauban disappeared, swallowed up under the sand. It wasn't until 1839 that the authorities began planting maritime pines and other vegetation, including marram grass (ammophilia), a hardy and resistant plant that has stabilised the dune. Today, roe deer and wild boar roam freely in the heart of the forest. During the last century, in the peaceful Mireille Oasis, , stood the « Chalet Mireille », a busy open-air cafe where people could go on Sundays to cross the salt marshes by boat or on foot.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
The decline of the Olonne salt industry dates from the middle of the 19th century. With the development of the railways came competition from the salt-producing regions of Southern France and the salt mines, which meant that the Olonne region was unable to compete with their industrial methods of salt extraction. After they were abandoned, the salt marshes were transformed into ponds for fish farming. Although they didn't know much about science, the people of the marshes have always known how to observe nature acutely. They also learnt to exploit and profit from the fish that swim upstream. In the old salt marshes, they dug pits.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
These had to be around two metres deep to prevent the water overheating in the summer and to protect the fish from freezing in the winter. The fish farmers also had to clean the marshes to rid them of the silt that had settled there and to remove the algae that invaded the surface and the depths. The Olonne marsh is a vast fish-feeding area covering 1,400 hectares, with plankton, shrimp, and earthworms allowing the fish to fatten up in these basins known as "vasas". The fish do not reproduce in these enclosures, so it is necessary to capture fish on a permanent basis using traps installed in the sluices that allow fish brought in by the tides to enter. In winter these are eels, in summer red mullet, perch and bream. A few years later, the adult fish are caught, either by sluice traps or by nets.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
Typical salt marsh vegetation grows at the foot of the banks. These salt-loving plants include the most common: • obione, whose bluish-green strands protect the base of the embankment. • artemesia maritima, or sea wormwood, used by our great-grandmothers as a cure for worms. • Salicorne, or samphire Glasswort, an excellent condiment that salt workers harvest in June and pickle in vinegar, like gherkins. • At the top of the banks, a few holm oaks and finally, whipped by the sea breeze, the tamarin or tamarisk. The salt river follows its course, and after passing through the marsh it meets the sea again at le Havre de la Gachere.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
The canals offer plenty of options for canoeing, starting from the village of l’Aubraie, where you can really get away from it all in the heart of nature. Lost in the marshes, on the landward side, in a few moments, we shall catch a glimpse of the village of Olonne sur Mer which was the original Roman port. Today, it bears witness to the link between two communities: that of the salt workers and that of the fishermen. Now it's time to experience the magic of the marsh. An osprey takes flight behind a thicket, showing us the beauty of its wingspan. The cries of the birds in the distance barely disturb the silence. The water laps softly. Everything is quiet here. Nature takes her time.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
We're going to stop for a moment to look at one of the last working salt pans in the Pays d’ Olonne region. The saltmarsh is composed of two parts : -A water reserve -In front of us, clay basins. The salt-worker lets water in from the canal and allows it to flow around (In the direction of the white, blue, green, and red arrows) as if it is gently trickling down a series of steps. Meanwhile, the sun and wind evaporate the water, leaving an ever-increasing concentration of salt. This increases tenfold, from 30 grams (1 ounce) per litre (i.e. seawater) to 300 grams (10.5 ounces) per litre at the point of crystallisation.
A boat for an extraordinary journey
(If heavy rain falls, it dilutes the salty water and the whole process needs to be started again.) The harvesting is carried out in the lowest basins, called “oeillets”. Salt first appears on the surface. This first salt is called “fleur de sel” (flower of salt) and is always very white. Next comes the grey cooking salt called “sel gris” which lies underneath, on the clay bed. With a long-handled tool called a “simouche” the salt-worker pulls the salt on to the “maître chemin” (the edge of the basin) where it drains during the night. The next day it will be piled up to form a “mulon”, or pyramid of salt. Olonne salt is collected during the warmer months, from June to September. In winter the salt is stocked in shelters called “salorges”, and the salt marsh is submerged under 50 cm (20 inches) of water.
The wind
Exposed in thin layers over the clay of the salt marshes, the sea water heats up in the sun, and is transformed into water vapour, which later becomes clouds with the help of the wind. The wind is therefore the 4th element needed to make salt.
Meeting with the salt worker
The salt marsh is composed of two parts :
- A water reserve
- Infront of us, clay basins.
The salt worker lets water in from the canal and allows it to flow around (In the direction of the white, blue, green and red arrows) as if it is gently trickling down a series of steps. Meanwhile, the sun and wind evaporate the water, leaving an ever-increasing concentration of salt. This increases tenfold, from 30 grams (1 ounce) per litre (i.e sea water) to 300 grams (10.5 ounces) per litre at the point of crystallisation. (If heavy rain falls, it dilutes the salty water and the whole process needs to be started again.)Meeting with the salt worker
The harvesting is carried out in the lowest basins, called "oeillets". Salt first appears on the surface. This first salt is called "fleur de sel" (flower of salt) and is always very white. Next comes the grey cooking salt called "sel gris" which lies underneath, on the clay bed. With a long-handled tool called a "simouche" the salt-worker pulls the salt on to the "maître chemin" (the edge of the basin) where it drains during the night. The next day it will be piled up to form a "mulon", or a pyramid of salt. Olonne salt is collected during the warmer months, from June to Septembre.
Meeting with the salt worker
In winter the salt is stoked in shelters called "salorges" and the salt marsh is submerged under 50 cm (20 inches) of water. At the end of the commentary, children can go down to the salt works and harvest their own salt !
Salt and the human body
Life began in the salty environment of the primitive ocean and the long evolution of species led to the first hominids, some eight million years ago. Our distant ancestors must have felt a real "hunger for salt" at certain points in their history. Salt, the condiment par excellence and a vital substance, probably played a major role in the long evolution of the human species. Salt is naturally present in the human body at about 5 grams per litre of blood, the highest concentration of any other mineral substance.
Salt and the human body
Every day, as part of our bodily functions (kidneys, sweating), we eliminate the mineral salts that are necessary for our overall health. Each day, we consume an average of 15 grams of salt, even though 5 to 6 grams would be enough for us to live on. Half of our salt intake comes from our food.Anyone denied salt would see their body wither away. In the Middle Ages, the old Dutch laws sentenced convicted criminals to live without salt in prison. The unfortunate prisoners died after four months in excruciating pain. Some prisoners were reduced to cutting their wrists to drink their own blood.
Prehistory
The Palaeolithic period
Man, gradually became a hunter, feeding mainly on raw meat. It was with this food and the bood of their prey that they maintained their mineral balance.
The Neolithic period
At the end of the ice age, which lasted 40.000 years, there were changes in the organisation of human groups. The climates became milder, and forest expanded. During this period, people began to build villages, started raising livestock and growing crops. Salt was used not only for preserving but also to give flavour to foods.
The gauls
To collect salt, the Gauls used salt ovens to evaporate sea water. The sea water was stored in clay pots, heated over a log fire. All that remained after water had evaporated were lumps of salt. This technique is known as "Briquetage". This method enable salt to be produced all year round but required a great deal of wood from the forests. We have discovered that each region used its own technique but with very diffrent names, but the principle remained the same.
The menhir
The word "menhir" comes from the Latin "maen" meaning "stone" and "hir" meaning "long". A menhir is therefore a long stone planted vertically in the ground. They can be found in Africa and Asia, but above all in Western Europe, where they were erected in the Neolithic period (between 6000 and 3000 BC). Almost nothing is known about the social organisation and beliefs of the people who erected these stones in the ground. These civilisations grew cereals, and it is believed that certain menhirs were associated with seasonal fertility rituals. Individually, these stones were used as markers indicating a watering place or a grave. However, when they were aligned from east to west or arranged in a circle, they were certainly used to worship the Sun and Moon. Over the centuries, they have undoubtably been used for other purposes. It is said that the druids used them for sacrifices. They would also have been primitive calendars.
The romans
In Rome, salt was used as a form of payment and a barter currency. The ration of salt given to legionaries as pay was called "salarius", hence the word "salary". The Roman invasion brought several innovations to Gaul : Latin, vines, roof tiles and our salt marshes.
The value of salt
In Asia and Africa, the price of salt was equivalent to that of gold. In some African contries, a slave was exchanged for a slab of salt the length of his foot.
The gabelle
The word "gabelle" comes from the Arabic "Kabala" meaning tax, no doubt a reminder of the Saracen invasion of the 8th century. This tax on salt was introduced in 1340 and lasted for 600 years, ending in 1945. This complicated and unfair taxation system led to restrictions and violent revolts. In 1781, thousands of smugglers were sent to the gallows for smuggling a few kilos of salt. The history of salt is deeply linked to the history of France.
The fisherman's hut
The Carrelet
The carrelet is a net of a few square meters stretched over a flat frame and lowered horizontally by means of a winch. After waiting for a few minutes, the net is hauled up quickly, trapping any fish between it and the surface. The bait consists of crushed mussels mixted with sand which is thrown into the middle of the net.
The fisherman's hut
The Nasse or creel
Is a cage with a rigid frame made of wicker, wire, metal or plastic mesh, with a square, rectancular, diamond shaped or hexagonal meshes. It has one or more entries and numerous hooks (anchons), to prevent the fish from turning back. The hooks guide the fish to the bottom of the net, where it is retrieved by the fisherman. The creel can sometimes be weighted, baited and used for fishing on its own or in a line, with the fisherman dropping it in to the bottom of the water and returning several hours or days later to retrieve his catch.
The fisherman's hut
The Foëne or "Salais"
(A term used in this region) is a harpoon with a long handle ending in several pointed branches, sometimes made of barbed wire which form a wide "comb". It is used to catch flatfish or large fish, particularly when fishing on foot, and generally in shallow waters. It handle can ba fitted with a cord, so that it can be brought back after being thrown at the fish. The foëne is particularly popular for eel fishing during the winter, in the holes in the marshes. With its many teeth (seven, for exemple, or even nine), the foëne makes it easy to capture this fish, which is so difficult to catch.
The fisherman's hut
The Tamis à Civelle (A glass eel sieve)
As the elver is too small to bite on a hook, it cannot be caught with just any kind of tool. The only way to catch it is with an elver sieve. All you need to do is spot a shoal of glass eels and, using the sieve, make a gentle upward movement from the bottom of the water to the surface so that you can catch enough. The term "glass eel" refers to the juveniles (larvae) stage of the species. Being able to live in the sea as well as in freshwater, the glass eel is even capable of moving on land ! They enter the marshes when they arrive on our coasts from the Sargasso Sea in winter and spring.
The various fish
The eel :
Throughout its life, the eel will live in 2 different environments: the ocean and continental waters (freshwater). To adapt as best it can to each of these habitats it will go through several extraordinary stages of transformation. This animal remains a mystery to this day, and the reasons for its migrations are still unknown. Crossing the oceans and mating at depths of up to 300 metres, no-one has ever been able to observe eels mating, let alone their nesting grounds... What's more, the place where they are born, mate and die is right in the heart of the famous Bermuda triangle...
The various fish
La dorade (Sea bream) :
Sea bream is a bony fish that lives in the Mediterranean, on the west coast (France) and off the coast of England. The average weight of a sea bream is 1.5 kg, however le pagrus (bluespotted seabream) can reach up to 10 kg. Although they can be found in our coastal waters, Sea bream spend their lives on the seabed, where they prefer areas of gravel, reefs, and wrecks. As adults, sea bream feed on small fish, bivalve molluscs, crustaceans, sea urchins and worms. Sea bream are born male and then transform into female fish (hermaphrodites).
The various fish
Le bar (Sea bass) :
This fish is found in the Northern Atlantic, stretching from Morocco to the Baltic Sea as well as in the Mediterranean, where it is known as the "wolf". It is easy to recognise thanks to its two distinctive dorsal fins, the first of which is entirely spiny. This fish adapts to almost all salinities and can live in fresh water only if it does not stay there for too long. The reproduction period takes place only in the sea. Sea bass cannot reproduce in marshland because the low salt content and with the drop in winter temperatures are prevented from developing normally. Sea bass grow more rapidly in the marshes, which offer better salinity conditions than those of the open sea.
The various fish
Le mulet (Mullet) :
They live in the Eastern Atlantic, the English Channel, the Bay of Biscay and along the Mediterranean coast. Despite its poor resistance to the cold, the mullet adapts very well to high temperatures. Low temperatures make them sensitive to sudden changes in salinity. Like sea bass, the mullet does not reproduce in the marshes.
The various fish
Le carrelet (Carrelet) :
or plaice can be found off our coasts, from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. Easily recognisable by its diamond shape, its flat greenish-brown body dotted with orange spots and its two eyes located on the right-hand side. It lives on sandy sea beds at depths of up to 200 metres. Like the gilthead bream, the carrelet prefers deep-water animals such as worms and crustaceans, which it seeks out mainly at night.
The story of "Camille the eel"
Hello ! My name is Camille and i'm an eel. I live in the Marais des Salines, and you may have spotted me at the bottom of the water or in the mud. I like dark places away from the light. Today i'm going to tell you my incredible story and that of my parents... I knew them, but the history of my species has taught me about the fabulous journey they undertook ! They grew up in the Marais des Salines. After 10 years, the call of Sargasso Sea prompted. First my dad, then my mom, to undertake a long journey across the Atlantic Ocean to reach this paradisiac sea. To adapt to the Ocean and confront its many predators, my parents underwent a transformation!
The story of "Camille the eel"
Their skin grew stronger and changed colour, their eyes grew bigger, and they transformed into silver Eels. After more than 6 months in deep waters, they arrived in the Sargasso Sea. This is where they met and fell in love. More than 1000 eggs were the result of their love ! Sadly, that's where my parents' lives came to an end after they had given... Orphaned, I hatched as a larva known as an "eptocephalus" and carried by the currents of the Gulf Stream, I migrated for 3 years over more than 6000 km to reach the fresh waters of Europe's rivers and marshes. To adapt to these new waters, I also changed! Starting out as a little elver, I made my way up the currents of the estuaries and rivers before finally arriving in the Marais!
The story of "Camille the eel"
There, hidden in the mud, safe ffrom predators (herons and cormorants), I grew up to become a beautiful yellow eel ! I've been living here for almost 11 years now, and I love it very much, but the Sargasso Sea is calling me to set out on the same jouney as my parents did. I was born there and I'm going back there to ensure the future of my species... I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to this ! I'll probably never see you again unless you're sailing in deep water ! But who knows, maybe one day you'll get the chance to meet my chlidren...
The fish trap
The Lock :
The lock just in front of you doubles up as a fish trap. Mesh funnels in the lock make it easier for fish to enter and become trapped on the marsh.
The Tiocs:
The fish marsh requires some maintenance every 4 years. All the fish will be caught. 4 sauniers are at work. Holes in the dykes wil be used to distribute the catch. The largest receives all the fish. This catch is then divided into 4 small holes called "Tiocs". At the end, the holes are randomly chosen by a child. This approch enabled the Sauniers to work together and ensure the proper upkeep of the Marais à poissons (salt marsh water reserve).
Salt and sailors
Preserving salt : to catch Cod, sailors spent 6 months at sea on the banks off Newfoundland. To preserve the fish, they covered it with salt.
The Nautical Mile is equal to
1852 m
This is the race that takes place every 4 years from Les Sables d'Olonne. Nicknamed single-handed round-the-world yacht race. The winner of the 2020 edition is Yannick Bestaven. When returning from the fishing grounds, there were two types of salt: "new salt" and "old salt". The "new salt" had been taken on board, but unfortunately had not been used, either because of poor fishing or for some other reason that had forced the boat to turn back. The fishermen said that this salt was of poor quality, and many had lost their cargo for having taken the same salt on board a second time.
The Vendee Globe :
Sailors and salt :
Salt and sailors
They claimed that the deterioration of this salt resulted from it having been stirred up and that the grains broken, due to its loading and unloading from the boat. However, this has not been confirmed and does not mean that it is true. The "old salt" was what had been used to load the cod. When the piles of fish were unloaded, some of the salt came off and could be re-used. The Port of Olonne, one of the largest cod fishing ports in France The Port of Olonne was at the height of its cod-fishing boom between 1660 and 1720. And in 1690 the La Chaume district alone, equipped 40 ships for the Newfoundland.
Salt and sailors
In 1725, there were 73 (120-to-200-ton) cod boats in the port of Les Sables: 4 were under construction, 5 were being refitted and 64 would leave on “bounty” trips to Newfoundland during the first few months of the year. An estimated 1,500 sailors from Olonne embarked on these boats. However, by 1755, only 44 ships left the port of Les Sables for Newfoundland. The quays were no less busy, however, as many ships were also engaged in the coastal trade in salt, wheat and wine between Bordeaux and Nantes. In fact, for several centuries, these two worlds, the sailors, and the salt producer's, were closely connected, much to the delight of both communities.
Salt and sailors
After battling storms and headwinds, the sailors finally arrive at the fishing zone. Here they fish in 2 different ways: The ships were de-rigged and anchored off the coast of Newfoundland. The crew, from 20 to 50 men, lived ashore in huts. Every morning, the sailors set off in rowing boats sailed by 3 of them. In the evening, they unloaded the day's catch. The cod was salted and dried on land, losing 3/4 of its weight. This was carried out offshore on the banks. Ships would leave for a 6-to-7-month fishing season with crews of 20 to 30 men. Fishing techniques evolved over time.
Sedentary fishing :
Wandering or "green" fishing :
Salt and sailors
At first, fishermen drew lines along the deck of the ship, then at the beginning of the 18th century, they drew lines from rowing boats or dories, flat-bottomed boats that were more easily manoeuvred and easy to stack on the deck. Once the boat had arrived on the banks, the dories were put out to sea with two crewmen who fished all day with drifting lines. Once the boat had arrived on the banks, the dories were put out to sea with two crewmen who fished all day with drifting lines. Sometimes they would get lost in the fog, so the mother ship would ring the ship’s bell using a specific code to that the lost sailors would recognise it. Finally, the cod was gutted, salted, and stored on board the ship. Sailors could stay at sea for more than 6 months and only returned to Les Sables d’Olonne once the holds were full.
The towpath
The dyke you are walking on was once used as a towpath. Towage is a method of pulling boats along a river or canal by means of a rope pulled either by hand or by a horse. After loading salt at Le Tasselier, La Gabare was towed along this path to reach the windier areas of the Chenal (channel), enabling it to sail to the port of Les Sables d'Olonne. There, the sailors transferred their cargoes aboard the Caboteurs and Bricks Morutiers. Much of the salt from the Marais d'Olonne was shipped by sea.
The towpath
The tasseliers :
The place where you are standing now used to be a "Tasselier". At a time when the salt trade and cod fishing were at their peak, the Tasseliers, located on the outskirts of the salt marshes, served as a storage area between the marshes and the Chenal (channel). The salt harvested there was laid out in the form of Mulon and then carried by hand in the Gabares and Bricks Morutiers. Ships coming from the port of Les Sables d'Olonne could stop here and be loaded directly with salt for the next fishing season.
The salt marsh plants
Salicorn :
Samphire, sea asparagus: These are low, bushy annual plants. There are more than 30 different species of glasswort. It is a salt-loving plant, living in the immediate vicinity of salt water and, more specifically, along the small embankments that funnel the water into the salt marshes. It is still used to produce plant-based soda ash, which was once used to make soap and which even today is still used to make Aleppo soap. The plant is also edible and can be eaten raw or cooked! The best time to harvest and eat this plant is from June to July. Salines' tip : Raw, its flavour resembles that of a gherkin, making it ideal with raw vegetables or cold meats. To eat it cooked, fry it in butter and serve it with red meat or an omelette.
The salt marsh plants
Obione :
Halimione portulacoides: is an evergreen shrub growing from 20cm to over a metre in height. Its tough, thick, fleshy foliage comes in grey-green, ashy, or silvery shades. Obione is a plant adapted to an environment with a high concentration of salt. It is therefore common to find it growing in colonies at the bottom of bays, in salt marshes, on rocks by the sea or in dunes. It flowers throughout the summer, producing a multitude of small spikes of yellowish flowers. Obione can withstand wind, sea spray, temporary flooding, drought, and cold, withstanding temperatures as low as -15°C. Salines' tip : The crunchy, fleshy leaves of the Obione are edible and can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, the most common being as crisps with a touch of fleur de sel, in salads or with fish.
The salt marsh plants
La soude maritime :
Suaeda maritima herbaceous seepweed: A herbaceous plant found in damp, salty environments, sodium hydroxide and has distinctive semi-cylindrical needle-shaped leaves. It flowers from July to October. It is a halophilous plant, living only in salty coastal soils and salt marshes. In the past, this plant was used to make 'lessit', a concoction obtained by boiling a mixture of salt-loving plants and vine shoots in a canvas bag. The final product was then used as washing powder or soap. It was also used in the glass industry and is occasionally eaten as a condiment. Les Salines' tip : Try it in a little garlic, parsley and fleur de sel - it's delicious!
The salt marsh plants
L'inule maritime:
(Inule visqueuse -Dittrichia viscosa – known as woody fleabane). This plant is a subshrub with simple, stiff stems that form clumps. It can grow up to 1 metre high. Its flowers are hermaphroditic. They thrive on sea-sprayed coastlines in wet (hygrophilous) soils such as salt meadows, lagoons, and salt marshes. The young leaves of this plant are edible. Les Salines' tip : Enjoy it as a condiment with a salad, raw vegetables and a dash of fleur de sel.
The Birds
Migration
When autumn arrives, migratory birds head down to Africa. This allows them to spend the winter in the warmth of their homeland, before returning the following spring.
Les Salines : a paradise for birds
At Les Salines, we encourage migratory birds to nest by building islets in the old salt marshes around you. Avocettes (avocets (Recurvirostra) and les échasses (black-winged stilts - Himantopus himantopus) bring a few twigs and build their nests there. They take great care to protect their eggs from predators such as gulls and muskrats. They lay around 3 or 4 eggs per nest. Once hatched, the young scatter and quickly start eating. They are then said to be "Nidifuges", as they leave the nest shortly after hatching or birth, unlike the species known as "Nidicoles". Once a year, the French League for the Protection of Birds comes to ring these little avocets, whose family name is "SALINES".
The Birds
MARSH BIRDS IN AUTUMN AND WINTER
Hibou des marais :
(Short-eared owl - Asio flammeus) This owl is diurnal, contrary to popular belief. It hunts by day and feeds mainly on voles, small rats, and mice. You can observe it in open areas, usually high up, watching for its next prey.
The Cygne :
(Swan – Cygnus): This bird comes from far away, spending the rest of the year between Eastern Europe and Asia, before coming to spend its winter in the warmer western hemisphere. You can find it on ponds and stretches of water feeding on marine vegetation, grass, and small invertebrates.
The Birds
La Becassine des marais :
(Common snipe - Gallinago gallinago). This bird also comes from Eastern to Europe and migrates to Western Europe in winter! This bird searches marshy waters for small animal prey, which it finds by probing the mud.
MARSH BIRDS IN SPRING AND SUMMER
le Chevalier Gambette :
((Common redshank - Tringa tetanus)
L'échasse blanche :
(Black-winged Himantopus himantopus): Often seen in the shallow waters of the Marshes where worms, molluscs, and other insect’s nest. With their long beaks, these birds can easily turn over mud or even seaweed to find their food!
The Birds
La Mouette rieuse :
(Black-headed gull -Chroicocephalus ridibundus): This shy species is very opportunistic! An omnivore, it feeds on worms and small insects found in the marshes, but also plants and household waste! They can be found wherever food is abundant, including in towns and cities. Be careful, they're real thieves !
L'hirondelle:
(Swallows - Hirundinidae): Swallows are birds that like to hunt in the air, feeding on small insects flying over the shallow waters of the marshes. They like to nest under the eaves of old buildings such as the Salorge.
The Birds
BIRD ON SITE ALL YEAR ROUND
Avocettes :
(Avocets - Recurvirostra) These birds are migratory, most spend the winter in Africa or southern Asia. A few, however, overwinter in France and Spain.
Le Canard colvert :
(Mallard or wild duck - Anasplatyrhynchos): This duck is a member of the dabbling family of ducks and prefers to feed on the surface or in shallow water. It lives on fish and grass, seeds, frogs, and insects, making the marshes the ideal place to live all year round!
The Birds
Héron cendré :
(Ardea cinerea) and Busard des roseaux (Western marsh harrier -Circus aeruginosus):These two species can be seen in the channels and fish marshes. This predator loves fish-filled waters, and can spot its prey from a distance, often attacking large fish such as bass and eels, as well as small rodents or other prey on land. The marsh is an ideal place for these species, providing them with an abundance of food all year round.
WE HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED YOUR VISIT TO LE PARC D’AVENTURE DU SEL. WE THANK YOU FOR YOUR VISIT AND WE LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOU SOON AT LES SALINES
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