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Fashion timeline

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Created on September 25, 2025

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Transcript

Fashion timeline

2023

1988

1995

2003

2012

2017

2023 Stella McCartney x Yoshitomo Nara
2017 Céline x Yves Klein's
2003 Takashi murakami X Louis Vuitton
2012 Louis Vuitton X Yayoi Kusama
1988 Yves Saint Laurent x Van Gogh

1995 Jean Paul Gaultier X Op art

2023 Stella McCartney x Yoshitomo Nara

Stella McCartney continued her partnership with Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara in 2023 with a Spring/Summer capsule that combined her sustainable, cruelty-free philosophy with his unique illustrations of big-headed kids, animals, and defiant slogans. The collection featured bold graphic prints, countercultural slogans like "STOP THE BOMBS" and "DON'T WASTE ANOTHER DAY," and practical silhouettes like trench coats, joggers, denim, and hoodies. To further emphasise the brand's activism-forward stance, the capsule featured matching children's items, accessories (platforms, totes, and hats), and a unisex collection. The pieces featured organic, vegan, and recycled materials—all of which are Stella's signature.

Takashi murakami X Louis Vuitton

In 2003, then-artistic director Marc Jacobs initiated the collaboration between Japanese artist Takashi Murakami and Louis Vuitton, leading to the creation of the Monogram Multicolore featuring vibrant LV logos on leather. This partnership, lasting over a decade, became one of Louis Vuitton's most significant, blending high fashion with pop art and introducing memorable designs such as the smiling cherry blossom and the "LV Panda."

First introduced in 2012 and resurrected in 2023, Louis Vuitton's partnership with Yayoi Kusama turned the upscale fashion brand into a living canvas for the artist's recognisable polka dots, which in her art represent self-obliteration and infinity. Vuitton translated Kusama's visual language into leather goods, ready-to-wear, and expansive retail spaces, encompassing shopfronts, pop-ups, and even digital landmarks in immersive dot installations, instead of merely printing the motif onto products. More than just a fashion collaboration, the outcome was a complete sensory takeover that made it difficult to distinguish between a modern art experience and a commercial product.

1988 Yves Saint Laurent x Van Gogh

Yves Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 1988 haute couture collection reimagined Vincent van Gogh's floral paintings through fashion rather than imitation. He worked with Maison Lesage to turn Van Gogh's painterly textures into elaborately embroidered jackets, which required over 600 hours of manual labour. He used pearls, ribbons, beads, and sequins to mimic the movement and depth of oil paint. Instead of just printing artwork onto clothing, YSL transformed brushstrokes into sculptural relief, allowing colour and texture to come to life on the body through motion. These pieces continue to be praised as groundbreaking instances of fashion as high art, blurring the boundaries between painting and apparel.

2017 Céline x Yves Klein's

Phoebe Philo tapped into Yves Klein's legacy in her Spring 2017 Céline collection by referencing his famous International Klein Blue (IKB) and the dramatic visuals of his Anthropométrie pieces. She displayed clothes in stark white that were "disturbed" by body-print traces and abstract swaths in intense Klein blue, producing a startling contrast between presence and emptiness. One item in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum is specifically identified as a Yves Klein print. This reappropriation of Klein's original performative gesture into wearable form occurs when a female body print is superimposed onto the garment, creating a sort of visual echo.

1995 Jean Paul Gaultier X Op art

The 1960s movement known for its mind-bending illusions and rhythmic geometries, Op Art, was honoured by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995. Gaultier designed garments that served as more than just surface adornment; they were visual experiments on the body. Hypnotic spirals, vibrating stripes, and distorted chequerboards were used in the knitting and printing of second-skin silhouettes, allowing the wearer's movement to add to the illusion. Dresses distorted perception by compressing or lengthening forms, making it hard to tell the difference between flesh and fabric; the human form became the canvas. In keeping with Gaultier's rebellious spirit, the collection was not only visually confusing but also questioned the role of fashion in perception itself. In a way that was both humorous and thought-provoking, it blended graphic art with sensual provocation.