So you adopted a Baby niffler

Info for 3 months or older

7 weeks

6 weeks

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Bonding

So you adopted a Baby niffler

Nifflers are outdoor, herbivorous, burrowing creatures attracted to shiny objects. They have long bill-like snouts for rooting, and marsupial-like pouches for storing items Nifflers do not make the best pets to keep just as companions, and most have a job they perform. Guarding and treasure detection are skills commonly used for. Nifflers can, and still often do form a bond with their handlers, if well-socialized to interact with humans from an early age

WARNING: They will bite someone who is wearing shiny jewelry, in their frenzy to get the object. Nifflers go after anything shiny: coins, keys, jewelry

Citations

Housing

DIet

Training

What to KEEP away from your niffler

FUN FACTS

congratulations on your niffler

Due to their love of treasure and shiny things they have been known to tunnel under the house which could collapse the support of the original tunnels so as a precaution you can put charms on your niffler to prevent them leaving the area.

Love to tunnel

While nifflers are cute and cuddly they love to tunnel and create burrows for themselves. Its important to create an underground habitat for them. You will have to charm the tunnels so they will stay within the confines of the ones you created.

Positive reinforcement

Nifflers respond well to positive reinforcement. As Hagrid said use gentle hand that is involved with lots of praise, treats, and love and focused on positive reinforcement, Because of their nature using a strong hand could stress dominance and can be counterproductive to your relationship with your niffler as they are very loving creatures.

If your niffler is experiencing any of these problems please go to your local Magizoologist as seen above:)

1. Gastrointestinal bloackage --> due to eating foreign objects such as coins and jewlery 2. Burrowing related injuries --> broken claw, respiratory issues due to moldy environments or too much inhaled dust that contains bacteria 3. Magical contamination --> If a Niffler steals a cursed artifact, it may suffer from: Magical poisoning, Hex-induced behavioral changes or Transformation mishaps 4. Dermatitis --> from brushing against poison ivy plants that can lead to a fungal infection (ringworm) if not treated

What to look out for

Nifflers are no exception to common diseases and injuries so here are some of the common problems to look out for:

Niffler fun facts

1. When outside of the house always keep your niffler on a leash --> Both the wizarding world and the Muggle world have an abundance of shining, glittery objects your Niffler won’t be able to resist. Leading to stolen goods and a whole mess of problems 2. Designate a safe zone in your garden --> nifflers love to burrow it will help to spread some shiny objects around as some enrichment as they are obsessed and it will keep them out of your own belongings 3. Nifflers love affection and attention --> make sure to give them lots of love or else they will find some other way to satisfy that need through treasure hunting which could lead to the destruction of not only your house but other property

START EARLy

Nifflers can be taken out of the wild but it is better to buy a niffler around 6 months after they have been weaned, so you can create a bond. This will help them understand why they can't go further than the tunnels created and not to take certain treasure especially "shiny" things

Primarily herbivores

Little Nifflers love too eat all different types of plants and roots. Weeds and shrubs are there favorite snack and they tend to dislike flowery plants.

What to do if you have a neonate niffler

Special attention must be given by breeders and keepers of neonate niffler pups to address some of these, including incomplete ossification of the rostral process of the snout, which may be continued internally as a cleft palate defect. This will cause difficulties prehending food and burrowing for both shelter and treasure hunting purposes. These pups require extra supportive care, which usually requires referral and intensive treatment to aid in nursing such that aspiration does not occur, and to provide physical therapy to ensure the snout does not experience atrophy and disproportionate growth due to burrowing challenges and associated lack of use. Most breeders will, if possible, raise neonate niffler pups in their outdoor vivariums that the dam lives in. The dam’s milk provides the best possible nutrition for the growing pup, and she will guide pups to develop physical strength and learning burrowing skills better than any other measure. If neonates are to be kept in an outdoor enclosure with the dam, some form of confinement must be placed around a designated area, such that heating charms can be confined to that place, or such that pups are limited to how far they can wander from a physical heat source. Barriers must be capable of preventing curious neonates from digging out and getting lost away from this temperature-controlled zone as they begin to develop their burrowing skills. Temperature control is particularly crucial within the first two months.

https://www.hogwartsishere.com/courses/COMC-301/lesson/204/ https://hogwarts-legacy.fandom.com/wiki/Niffler https://harrypotter.fandom.com/wiki/Niffler https://harrypotter.fandom.com/wiki/Niffler_at_the_Magical_Creatures_Reserve#:~:text=Jacob's%20sibling%20was%20surprised%20that,this%20made%20the%20approach%20effective. https://www.mugglenet.com/2016/02/tips-for-niffler-care/ https://www.hogwartsishere.com/courses/COMC-301/lesson/204/

6 Weeks

-By six weeks, most niffler pups will have enough control of their motion and reflexes to be able to nurse from nipples on a nanny rack in the vivarium, though slow growers may still need to be hand fed by bottle up to three months. Any niffler with a cleft palate mutation, no matter how mild, will need to be fed only by the caretaker to keep careful watch to prevent aspirations until surgery is an option. Caregivers of orphaned nifflers must understand early on that there are many additional, less common reasons why a pup may need to be bottle fed in frequent intervals longer past six months, and be committed up front to this possibility. Nifflers in the wild may not be fully weaned until up to six months of life. Nifflers handled and trained from early life for guardian and defense purposes have been weaned as early as four months and been able to attain full, expected growth; however, statistics over time have suggested that weaning earlier than five months may predispose to orthopedic disease later in life. Many of these nifflers also seemed prone to higher than average body condition, which is suspected to be correlated with the orthopedic disease, and compounding challenges with efficient burrowing. Therefore, it is recommended that niffler pups be fully weaned no earlier than five months, and if possible, to still have some component of milk in their diet up to six months if possible. After twelve weeks, roughly three months, nifflers should have at least thirty percent of their diets as solid plant material, and milk can be mixed in to soften this, or given separated in bowls or pans.

7 Weeks

-By seven weeks, any Nifflers raised temporarily indoors during the immediate neonatal period will need to begin to be transitioned to an outdoor vivarium with a temperature regulated structure they can move in and out of as needed while their outdoor burrowing skills finish development. This is because by eight weeks, they begin developing escape behavior. Curiosity and heightened awareness of their surroundings will drive this along. It is not a matter of if, but when a niffler will figure out how to escape its indoor enclosure, and while they are every bit as capable as an adult of wreaking havoc and damaging property, they have not yet fully developed spacial awareness, and may misjudge distances in jumping, or the spaces which they can fit into. In some cases, falls, improper landings, and entrapment beneath toppled household items may cause injuries with the potential of altered growth and permanent deformity, or death. -While juvenile and adult Nifflers are generally averse to toxic plants by taste and will learn quickly to leave these alone, neonate Nifflers are less resistant to low doses of toxins, especially with renal development being incomplete at birth. Therefore, if not using a temporary, indoor vivarium during the immediate neonatal period, it is essential to ensure outdoor vivariums are clear of any invasively growing toxic plants, or that those placed in to provide hiding areas for adults are removed from the area sectioned off for raising neonates