WAVES

WAVETRANSFORMATION

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The cicle of life of a wave

birth of a wave

Waves are created when water and wind mix. Wind moves energy across the surface of the ocean, creating ripples that eventually grow into waves. Numerous factors, such as the wind's speed, length, and fetch—the distance it blows continuously—affect a wave's size and intensity.

The Journey of a Wave

Think of a wave as a rolling slope of water. It changes from deep to shallow water in terms of both shape and speed. In deep water, particles make nearly perfect rings. But these orbits are obstructed by the ocean floor as the wave approaches the coast, causing it to steepen, slow down, and ultimately break.

The Wave's Transformation

Waves change in numerous ways as they get closer to the coast. Waves enter shallower water and bend due to refraction. Waves that are shoaling get steeper and higher as they get closer to the coast. A wave eventually breaks when its height becomes too high, releasing its energy as turbulence and foam.

The Wave's Legacy

Our coasts are sculpted by the waves. The relentless beating of the waves forms beaches, moves silt, and erodes cliffs. The kind of shoreline, the angle at which waves hit the coast, and the existence of undersea features like reefs all influence these dynamic processes.

The Wave's Legacy

Wave knowledge is essential for studies on climate change, marine life, and coastal management. Waves not only produce electricity but also play a crucial role in shaping our coastlines and influencing navigation. By studying waves, we can develop sustainable ways to harness wave energy and better protect coastal communities from erosion and flooding.

Bibliography

• Thurman, H. V., & Trujillo, A. P. (2011). Oceanography: An introduction. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall.
• Dean, R. G., & Dalrymple, R. A. (1984). Coastal dynamics. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall.
• National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). (n.d.). Ocean Service. Retrieved from https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/

BY: UNAI ARIZMENDI

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