High Rappel Dell - Main Wall
Mac McCaleb
Created on September 11, 2024
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Transcript
The Corridor (AkA Descent Gully)
The South Wall Area Click for next infographic.
- Remain as-is.
- Two large eye bolts cemented into top of cliff.
Serves Main Wall Right
Anchor
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolts
- Install new quicklinks with rings.
- May 16th, 2024 - No main top anchor for Gary's Climb. Recommend adding two-bolt anchor.
Serves Route #19a, 28-30
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
VIDEO
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Routes #33
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #46
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #47-48
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove all old bolts, hangers, and chain
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolts.
- Patch top-left bolt hole.
- Install new chain with Mussy Hooks.
- September 4th, 2024 - Anchor had three bolts, removed all three, and replaced two 1:1. Added shorter chain and Mussy Hooks.
Serves Route #62Ashes, Ashes, All Fall Down
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #35-37
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #38
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Old SMC Hanger (horizontal logo)
- Over-sized hole, bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA Bolt or Glue-in
Bolt On-Route
- Newer SMC Hanger (Vertical logo)
- Bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 2.75" ASCA Bolt
Bolt On-Route
- Unknown variety of Petzl hanger
- Bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA Bolt
Bolt On-Route
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #54
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Routes #11-14
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #55
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Routes #20,21,26,27-30
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolts
- Install new quicklinks with rings.
- May 16th, 2024 - No main top anchor for Gary's Climb. Recommend adding two-bolt anchor.
Serves Route #22, 24, 25a
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
VIDEO
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolts
- Install new quicklinks with rings.
- May 16th, 2024 - No main top anchor for Gary's Climb. Recommend adding two-bolt anchor.
Would Serve Route #15
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
VIDEO
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #41
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #45-46
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Routes #20-21,31-32,34
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Removed old Metolius Rappel Hangers and bolts
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolts.
- Use double-ring SS rappel hangers.
- September 3rd, 2024 - Replaced anchor 1:1 with double-ring SS rappel anchor.
Serves Route #66-67(Stay Free & Wigan Pier)
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #50,53-54
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- May 9th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #32
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.
- Old SMC Hanger (horizontal logo)
- Over-sized hole, bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA Bolt or Glue-in
Bolt On-Route
- Newer SMC Hanger (Vertical logo)
- Bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 2.75" ASCA Bolt
Bolt On-Route
- Unknown variety of Petzl hanger
- Bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA Bolt
Bolt On-Route
- Remove old Metolius Hangers and bolts.
- Installed new 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-Piece bolts.
- Used Single-Ring Rappel SS Hangers with QL and Mussy Hooks
- September 2nd, 2024 - Replaced anchor 1:1
- Added Mussy Hooks
Serves Route #65(Out of Control)
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolts
- Install new quicklinks with rings.
- May 16th, 2024 - No main top anchor for Gary's Climb. Recommend adding two-bolt anchor.
Would Serve Route #15
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
VIDEO
- Old SMC Hanger (horizontal logo)
- Over-sized hole, bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA Bolt or Glue-in
Bolt On-Route
- Newer SMC Hanger (Vertical logo)
- Bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 2.75" ASCA Bolt
Bolt On-Route
- Unknown variety of Petzl hanger
- Bolt is loose
- To be replaced with 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA Bolt
Bolt On-Route
- Removed old Metolius Rappel Hangers and bolts.
- Installed new 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolt.
- Used single-ring SS rappel hangers.
- September 2nd, 2024 - Replaced Metolius Rappel hangers and bolts 1:1 with SS rappel rings.
Serves Route #64The Barber Route (Cerebal Palsy)
Anchor Update
Action Plan
- Remove cold shuts and bolts
- Installed new SS 10mm x 120mm Raumer Glue-ins.
- Installed new SS Quicklingks and chain.
- September 4th, 2024 - Replaced cold shuts 1:1 with 10mm Raumer glue-ins.
Serves Route #63Rockin' Reggae
Anchor Update
Action Plan
- Remove old rusted chain
- Install new chain and Mussy Hooks
- August 2015 - Anchor replaced 1:1 and used old chain.
- September 5th, 2024 - Chain replaced and added Mussy Hooks
Serves Route #60Stars and Stripes
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
- Remove old sleeve.
- Install new 1/2" x 4.75" ASCA bolt.
- Install new chain.
- September 5th, 2024 - Main top anchor for Guillotine Flake has one bolt missing altogther.
Serves Route #60Thank God
Anchor Update
Mountain Project Reference Page
Action Plan
Hole likely from original bolt dated to FA in 1970.