Pods in a Jar Guide

Pods in a Jar

Tutorial

The Jar

Supplies

Structure

Landscaping

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Welcome to Mia's Jar Terrarium Guide!

This guide contains examples of how I set up enclosures for my isopods using the LECANI Jar, from creating a moisture gradient to building a natural habitat using a variety of supplies. Use the menu links at the top to navigate between the pages!

Note: I am not affiliated with LECANI in any way. I just really like their jars.

Pods in a Jar

Tutorial

The Jar

Supplies

Structure

Landscaping

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The Light

The Jar

The Lid

The lid is wooden, has a hole in the center, and is lined with a rubber stopper for a tight fit in the jar. I cut a round piece of steel mesh and glue it to the bottom of the lid to block out pests while maintaining airflow.

The lid of the terrarium has an integrated LED light powered by USB. It's a very natural lighting that plants and moss thrive under, and which the pods don't seem to mind in the slightest.

This is the LECANI Large Glass Plant Terrarium. Its major benefits are its shape, sturdiness, and -- of course -- the lid/light. There's also a smaller version for small builds.

PRos and Cons

Step-by-step Lid Process

Note: I am not affiliated with LECANI in any way. I just really like their jars.

Pods in a Jar

Tutorial

The Jar

Supplies

Structure

Landscaping

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Structure a Moisture Gradient

A moisture gradient means providing a wet zone and a dry zone, often with a damp area in the middle. This helps keep your isopods In a round terrarium, it’s easiest to create these areas by using height. I use rocks and/or volcanic rock caves with substrate to create a hill structure. Then I decide between two approaches. Mountain and Valley: The dry zone is the high area and the wet zone is lower area, with a transitional zone towards the middle and up the sides. Mountain and Plains: The wet zone is the higher area and the dry zone is the lower area, with a transitional zone towards the middle and up the sides. Hover over the zones to view the set-up. Click the buttons to learn more about each approach.

Wet Zone

Dry Zone

Transitional Zone

Transitional Zone

Dry Zone

Wet Zone

Drainage Layer

Drainage Layer

Benefits & Examples

Benefits & Examples

Pods in a Jar

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The Jar

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Landscaping Examples

Zebras

Magic Potions

Clowns

Orange Vigors

Red Pandas

Click the eye buttons on the above images to view a breakdown of all the materials used and how they're used in each terrarium.

Pods in a Jar

Tutorial

The Jar

Supplies

Structure

Landscaping

Home

Step 3

Step 5

Step 1

Step 2

Step 4

Add the initial substrate layer on top of the drainage layer.

Build a high/low moisture gradient structure using rocks and wood.

Add the drainage layer to the bottom of the terrarium.

Landscape your terrarium structure to create your gradient zones.

Add the final practical and/or decortive details to your terrarium.

View Step

View Step

View Step

View Step

View Step

Click the 'View Step' buttons to read the instructions and watch the tutorial for each of the steps individually. Click the button below to watch all steps at once.

Watch the Full Tutorial

Pods in a Jar

Tutorial

The Jar

Supplies

Structure

Landscaping

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Most Used Supplies

These are the supplies I use in just about every terrarium I make. They may not be the best of their kind -- looking at you, coco coir -- and much of what's here isn't strictly necessary, but this stuff has done really well for me so far. Hover over each item to learn what it is and how I use it. Click the item to open its store location.

Honorable Mentions

Foraging for Supplies

Pods in a Jar

Tutorial

The Jar

Supplies

Structure

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Supplies from Outside

Because pods thrive the best on rotting things, sourcing your own rotting things is a lot cheaper and easier than constantly buying stuff. However, there are some important factors you need to know before you start. Hover over or click the buttons below to learn about those factors.

Where you're foraging matters.

How you're foraging also matters.

Make sure you know what things are before you take them! I often use Google Lens/Image Search.

Dealing with hitchhikers is inevitable.

Back to Supplies

Everybody has an opinion on sanitizing. Here's mine.

Honorable Mentions

These are things I use mostly for decoration but can recommend:

Wet Zone: Spray and lightly mix the substrate in the wet zone thoroughly to moisten (but not saturate) it, then add the live/wet elements (live moss, plants, clover seeds). Transitional Zone: As you get closer to the dry zone, particularly at the sides going up/down, add transitional materials like pieces of mossy wood and sphagnum moss. Dry materials can also be used in transitional or wet zones but will develop mold/mildew faster than your pods and springtails can keep up with. Cork bark and cholla wood stay mold/mildew-free the longest. Dry Zone: In the dry zone add dry materials like leaves, cork bark, lotus pod pieces, cholla wood, and more sphagnum moss. These materials will likely develop mildew/mold from ambient moisture in the terrarium air, but slow enough to be beneficial rather than overwhelming.

Cons

Pros

• Everybody seems to thrive in these
• Holds humidity/moisture like a dream for both arid and tropical set-ups
• Round shape makes 360 viewing much easier
• Widest part of the jar is exactly where it needs to be to provide most living space
• As close to a completely sealed environment as you can get with decent airflow
• Very sturdy -- I've knocked one off a desk and it was shaken but not shattered
• Easy to rearrange and add things to over time
• ✨Beautiful✨

• Best for small/slow-breeding colonies; larger colonies may need to be split up sooner
• Not all decor fits through the opening
• Ventilation is top-down only; cross ventilation only possible if you can confidently cut holes in glass
• Curved shape tends to get dustier than rectangular enclosures
• Slightly harder to maintain a completely dry area if not careful with spray bottle

What is it? This is the soil and other organic matter your isopods will live in and eat. How much substrate you add depends on whether your species are heavy burrowers (e.g. Giant Canyon Isopods) or are more arboreal/adventurous (e.g. Zebra Isopods). Instructions: Add 2-4 inches (4-5 cups) of substrate to your terrarium.

The Mountain & Valley Approach

In this set-up, drier materials like pine cones and corkbark are placed in the higher area of the terrarium ("the mountain"). This zone is never watered and kept as free of moisture as possible, although I do spray a little water along the sides leading down to create a transitional damp space. Meanwhile, plants and live moss grow in the lower area of the terrarium ("the valley"). This zone is where all the water in the terrarium is directed and is kept fairly damp. The wet zone in this set-up is usually wider and more spacious.

• Better for including bigger/sturdier plants
• Easier to maintain separate wet/dry zones but a little harder to maintain a true gradient
• Harder to water while avoiding dry zone entirely

Instructions: Add the fine details like smaller rocks, shells, small pieces of cuttlebone, a piece of limestone, additional leaves/bark/lotus, acorns, etc.. I usually pick at least one rock that has a flatter surface to use like a “dining area” in the wet zone, where I put food so it’s up off of the ground. If you have springtails, now is a good time to add them!

About Mia

• I'm an instructional technologist at a college by day and an isopod keeper by also day. And night. I'm both of those things at night too.
• I started keeping isopods as a clean-up crew for my ball python Horace, swore I'd never get into the fancy stuff, and two years later here we are. I didn't get serious until around April 2023, though, which means...
• ...most of my enclosures are only 5-8 months old. 😅
• I keep 20+ types of isopods. My collection grows anytime I say the magic words: "okay that's it I'm done no more new isopods".

• My favorite pods are Cubaris Pak Chongs, Cubaris Panda Kings, Armadilidium Vulgare (Magic Potions specifically), and Armadillidium Maculatum.
• I also keep three types of springtails, a cat, and a dog.

What is it? A layer of porous materials that excess water can drain into. It prevents your soil from becoming soggy, assists with mold prevention, and helps humidity levels. Instructions: Add a single layer of LECA to the bottom of your terrarium, then add a layer of volcanic rock pebbles. Protip: find the prettiest pebbles and stick them around the sides so you can see them through the glass. Put the more boring ones in the middle.

What is it? A moisture gradient means having a wet zone, a dry zone, often with a damp zone in the middle. In a round terrarium, it’s easiest to create these zones by using height. Think ‘mountain’ and ‘valley’ – the mountain is kept dry, while the valley is kept moist. You could also flip this, where the ‘mountain’ is kept wet while the ‘valley’ is kept dry. Instructions: Use the substrate and large landscaping materials to make a high place and a low place inside your terrarium. You can do this by using a large, flat rock or lava rock caves to create a ledge, then pile the substrate on the other side and around it to create a hill. Use a little water to hold things in place while shaping.

The Mountain & Plains Approach

In this set-up, the wet zone is located in the higher area of the terrarium ("the mountain"). It consists of live moss, mossy decaying wood, and sometimes (but not typically) plants. This zone is watered and usually creates a natural transitional zone as water trickles/leeches down from the top. Meanwhile, the lower area of the terrarium ("the plains") is kept dry and contains the majority of the leaf litter, lotus pods, rocks, etc. Due to the water coming down "the mountain", there tends to be slightly less of a separation between wet and dry.

• Easier to maintain a true moisture gradient
• Dry zone is usually wider and more spacious on the surface but slightly more moist on the substrate level
• More moss-friendly than plant-friendly

How to Prepare Your Jar's Lid

Step 1: Cut a 4 inch square of steel mesh. Position it over the underside of the lid and use a marker to trace around the outer edge of the opening.

Supplies: 1. Jar Lid (comes with the jar) 2. 304 Stainless Steel Woven Wire 80 Mesh (0.18mm Hole) 3. Glue 4. Marker 5. Scissors 6. A weight (e.g. can of soda)

Step 2: Add a generous ring of glue around the whole edge of the opening so it can cure a little while you cut out the steel mesh circle.

Step 3: Place the steel mesh circle atop the glue ring, ensuring there are no gaps between the mesh and the edge.

Step 4: Using something with a fine edge (e.g. the marker), press and smooth the mesh down so glue beads up through it. Wipe up any extra glue on the light fixture with your fingers or a paper towel. Avoid getting glue on the inner part of the steel mesh circle.

Step 5: Use a round weight (e.g. a can of soda, a heavy drinking glass) to hold the screen mesh in place. Let the lid dry for at least an hour before removing the weight. Let the lid dry for at least 2-3 hours before exposing it to moisture.

• Step 1: Rinse everything off really well under the faucet, especially if there’s lots of mud or debris.
• Between Steps 1 and 2, if the wood is thick and/or I saw ants nearby, I’ll sometimes pour boiling water over the side without moss. I try to get it in all the nooks and crannies. This sometimes fries the moss, but I’ll take crunchy moss over ants any day.
• Step 2: Soak in filtered water and hydrogen peroxide for 3-5 hours. I don’t even measure it. I just use enough water to submerge everything and dump a goodly amount of peroxide in.
• Step 3: Rinse everything off again to remove peroxide (possibly not necessary but I’m no expert lol).
• Step 4: Submerge in filtered water and let it soak for 3-5 days. I typically cover it with plastic wrap or use a big tupperware container with a lid. Sometimes I set it somewhere sunny if there’s a lot of live moss on the wood. There really is no set thing.
• Step 5: Take it out and rinse it one more time if you’re feeling extra cautious, otherwise just set it out on some paper towels to air dry a bit. When it’s still a little damp but not soaked, you can put it in the enclosure. You can also let it dry out completely (moss will usually die but still look cool and be nutritious for the pods once rehydrated) for use later, or stick it in a sealed container with some air holes and access to light. If you do it right the moss will stay alive and the wood will continue to decompose.

Mia's Sanitizing Process

I use a version of the ol' rinse-and-soak method, with the primary purpose being to remove any hitchhikers or their eggs without killing any moss or plant life (at least, as much as possible). I do this mainly to prevent ants, which are very prevalent in my area and can be very sneaky/hard to remove. While the microbes and microfauna from nature are super beneficial to pods, an ant infestation would test the limit of my family's love for me just a bit too far for comfort. 😌 Click the steps to magnify them.