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Historia de la indumentaria

Sheila Maria

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Transcript

Historia de la Indumentaria

Sheila María Pulido Artés
Índice

IMPERIO BIZANTINO

pREHISTORIA

PERSIA

MINOICO

ETRURIA

mESOPOTAMIA

GRECIA

EGIPTO

ROMA

EDAD ANTIGUA

06/10/18

Índice

Edad Media siglo v-xv

Edad Media Alta

Edad media baja

Barroco (siglo xvii)

21st Century

19th Century

Edad media PLENA

Rococó (siglo xviii)

renacimienTO (siglo XVI)

20th Century

06/10/18

PREHISTORIA

1.5 MILL. A.C - 3.000 A.C

En la prehistoria surgen grandes invenciones, la rueda, el fuego, la escritura. Pero en la infumentaria hay grandes descubrimientos y avances, se crean las primeras prendas, la primera aguja y el primer telar.

AGUJA

TELAR(Neolítico)

PRENDAS

mESOPOTAMIA

3.500 A.C - 539 A.C

Produjo múltiples civilizaciones. Su nombre significa "entre dos ríos" ya que se localizaba entre los ríos Tigris y Eúfrates. Analizaremos la indumentaria de las civilizaciones sumeria, babilónica y asiria.

Sumerios

siglos IV A.C - III A.C

Fue la civilización más antigua del mundo. Su indumentaria consistía en una falda elaborada a base de flecos gruesos unidos por piezas de metal. Las mujeres usaban partes de arriba hechas de igual forma o vestidos con una o dos mangas.

Los soldados portaban capas con circulos de metal adornandolas, posiblemente como armadura. También usaban cascos cónicos de cuero.

Los hombres usaban todados en forma de maceta invertida. Las mujeres usaban tocados ornamentados.

Babilonios y asirios

Colores vivos y adornos tanto para hombres como mujeres.

Kandís: túnica decorada con flecos

Chal: manto rectandular o circular.

Solían llevar el pelo y barba en rizos.

Persia

Desde egipto hasta pakistán

Túnicas abiertas por delante, hasta el suelo, con mangas anchas, plisadas y bicolor, ricamente decorados

Kroumir: botines de cuero hasta el tobillo, con lengüeta en el empeine y punta ligeramente hacia arriba.

Entre los guerreros persas, nunca falta el pantalón, nombrado por los griegos anaxyrides.

Paño de barbilla, hecho de hilo blanco y cubria cuello y cabeza.

EGIPTO

3.100 A.C - 31 A.C

Tejidos coloridos ya que el procedimiento de teñido es muy avanzado. A veces decoraban con oro.

Utilizan el lino, ya que consideran que su color blanco representa la pureza y trae frescor para las altas temperaturas.

Numerosos tejedores extranjeros se instalaron en Egipto hasta tal punto que el término “sirio” se convirtió en sinónimo de “tejedor”

Estudio de la indumentaria a traves de los tejidos conservados en los ajuares funerarios.

INDUMENTARIA FEMENINA

Vestido ajustado

Calasiris

Chal o echarpé

Cinturón que urilizaban las bailarinas

INDUMENTARIA MASCULINA

Shenti o Schenti: especie de faldilla que se arrollaba a la cintura y se ceñía con un cinturón de cuero. Solían utilizarla para atraer la vista a sus genitales ya que era considerada su parte sagrada. Los faraones solían llevar el shenti bordado y una cola de león colgada de la parte trasera. A finales del Imperio Nuevo (1500 a.c.), los hombres llevaban falda larga de lino de longitud variable.

ACCESORIOS Y TOCADOS

Coronas que mostraban la soberanía de las tierras.

Nemes rematados con ureus, llevado por el faraón

Utilizaban pelucas sobre sus cabezas rapadas debido a las infecciones por insectos.

Civilización minoica

1.750 A.C - 1.400 A.C

Primera y más antigüa civilización europea. Su nombre viene del rey micenas llamado Minos. No era un pueblo guerrero y tenían gran influencia egipcia y babilonia.

INDUMENTARIA FEMENINA

Corpiño atado con cordones debajo del pecho. Mangas al codo y ajustadas.

Pampanilla o delantal y cinturón.

Falda, podía ser ajustada, con volantes, estampada y de diversos colores.

INDUMENTARIA MASCULINA

Pantalón hasta el muslo con borlas

Calzado: zapatillas, sandalias atadas al tobillo, botines de gamuza y botas altas y cerradas para viajar.

Pampanilla o falda corta que con el paso del tiempo se alargaría hasta mitad del muslo. Decorada con abalorios, borlas, etc.

GRECIA

2.500 A.C - 146 A.C

Crean una indumentaria sencilla y pura a base de "paños colgados" de diferentes materiales como la lana, el lino, el algodón o la seda.Predominaban los colores crudos.

INDUMENTARIA FEMENINA

Pharos

Palla

INDUMENTARIA MASCULINA

Clámide: capa corta unida en los hombros.

Quitón: túnica ancha, podían confeccionarle mangas con tela extra.

Himation: manto corto, rectangular, que se llevaba sobre los hombros.

ACCESORIOS Y CALZADO

Calzado

Cecrífalo

Pileo

Pétaso

ETRURIA

(s. IX - X) A.C - I D.C

ROMA

753 A.C - 476 D.C

Dos piezas, amictus (prenda exterior) e inductus (prenda interior).

Uso de perlas en complementos

Material más usado: lino, lana y seda.

ROPA INTERIOR

Subligar

Subúcula

INDUMENTARIA FEMENINA

Palla

Túnica

Carbatina (calzado)

INDUMENTARIA MASCULINA

Toga

Túnica

TÚNICAS MASCULINAS
TOGAS MASCULINAS
PRENDAS DE ABRIGO

Paludanentum

Pallium

IMPERIO BIZANTINO

UT2

MIDDLE AGES AND RENAISSANCE

Historical period of Western civilisation from the 5th to the 15th centuries

Fabrics used were rather coarse and resistant.

The dress became longer, heavier and more fitted because of weather changes.

Colours were brown, grey, hazel, brown and black.

11th - 12th centuries

WOMEN´S CLOTHING

Pinch

Almejías

Brial

Surcote

Tunic

MEN'S CLOTHING

Breeches

Short suit

Shirt

13th century

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Cotardía

Overcoat

Ornamented shrits

Saya

Cota

Pellote

Hopalanda

14th century

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Tight, low cut dresses

Gonelas (over garment)

Gonelas (under garment)

MEN'S CLOTHING: UNDERNEATH

Shrit and breeches

MEN'S CLOTHING: OVERALLS

Jubón

Cota

Aljuba

Cotardía

Jacket

Hopalanda

MEN'S CLOTHING: CLOTHES ON TOP

Herigout

Gabán

Tabardo

Huca

15th century

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: SEMI-INTERIOR

Cos

Skirt

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: BODY

Saya

Brial

Gonete

Basquiña

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: OVERALL

Hábitos

Pellote

Mongiles

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: ON TOP

Cloak

Tabard

Capuz

Garnacha

BODY CLOTHING
SEMI-UNDERGARMENTS
MEN'S CLOTHING:

Saya

Tights

Jubón

Jacket

MEN'S CLOTHING: ON TOP

Gaban

Paletoque

Loba

16th century

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Verdugado

Body

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: ACCESORIES

Gorguera

Lechuguilla

MEN'S CLOTHING

Jubón

Justillo

Body garments

Sayo

MEN'S CLOTHING

Maneloville

Zornea

Tudesco

Long cloak

UT3

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

Period of great change and political tension between the different European powers

"Spanish fashions" almost disappeared from France by 1635

At the beginning of the 18th century, fashion still maintained baroque elements

Rococo style was born in France

Baroque (17th century)

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Bodies and sayo

Guardainfantes

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: COLLARS

Fan valona (raised at the back)

Cariñana valona (lace, exposes the throat)

MEN'S CLOTHING

Capote

Ropilla and Ferreruelo

Suit

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: DRESS AND COLLARS

Fallen collars or valonas

Dress or sobreveste

Medici collar

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: SKIRTS

Secret skirt

Frippone

Jupe modeste

WOMEN'S CLOTHING: MID-17TH CENTURY

Dress (lace, jar-like shape)

Corset

Gown/manteau

MEN'S CLOTHING

Modification of men's clothing into what was known as the "Musketeer Style", of military influence

MEN'S CLOTHING: MID-17TH CENTURY

Manteux (warm clothing)

Jubón

MEN'S CLOTHING: END OF 17TH CENTURY

Cravat

Jacket

Rhingrave

Casaca

Rococo (18th century)

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Levita dress

Volante dress

Ingless dress

French-style dress

Polonese dress

MEN'S CLOTHING

Suits that evolved with time, casacas, shirts, breeches and jackets were still used, sometimes more ornamented.

UT4

19th Century

Haute couture emerged under the couturier Charles Frederik Worth.

In England, textile factories appeared - mass production of inexpensive garments

Strict protocol dictated what to wear for each activity

Changes in customs and habits

Neoclassicism (1800 - 1820)

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Enaguas

Cotilla or corset

Stockings

Shirt

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Empire/Regency dress

Maja dress

Riding suit

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Spencer or bolero: short jaket.

Redingote

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Capota hat

Handbag

Gloves

Calash hat

MEN'S CLOTHING

Pants

Shirt (they could add a corset on top)

Stockings

MEN'S CLOTHING
MEN'S CLOTHING

Spanish hats:

Tricorn

Bicornium

High coat

Stick

Tie

Romanticism (1820 - 1830)

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

The dress took some changes like volume on the sleeves, becoming more puffed; a more accentuated waist, and using corsé and enaguas.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Men's suit also went through changes:

  • The collar of the shirt was raised.
  • The gavan appeared.
  • Bocamangas were narrow and extended to the knuckles.
  • Ties were raised and stiffened,
  • Strawberried sleeves were padded.
  • They added the golden clock as an accesory.

Victorian Fashion (1830 - 1890)

WOMEN'S CLOTHING
1830-1850

Corset, chemise, tight fitting bodice on top of the corset and sleeves (3/4 or bell shaped).

Skirts with crinoline to add volume. Under them the wore bloomers, which were loose-fitting trousers.

WOMEN'S CLOTHING
1850-1870

Society dress

Bloomers, that were baggy pants, were now shown and used daily with an over skirt to the knee.

WOMEN'S CLOTHING
1830-1850

1890

1880

1860

1870

MEN'S CLOTHING
1830-1850

Nordfolk Jacket was an elegant jacket that was used for golf or hunting. Usually a hat was added.

Morning coat.

MEN'S CLOTHING
1850-1890

Lounge (suit) jacket, to the hip.

UT5

20th & 21st Centuries

Inclusion of women in society.

Big social conflicts emerged.

2 World Wars.

Era of designers

1900 - 1910

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Women's dress continued to be:

  • "S" Silhouette.
  • The skirt was adjusted to the waist and fell in the shape of a bell.
  • Bodices had ruffles.
  • Long sleeves.
  • Day: body fully covered.
  • Night: big neckline.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Men's bourgeois suit:

  • Single breasted jacket, peak lapel and lined in black silk.
  • Trousers of the same colour, which may or may not have satin side bands.
  • Waistcoat.
  • Black or white tie.
  • Hats.

1910 - 1920

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Because of WWII women´s skirts were shortened and made looser. They also accesorized with hats, gloves, etc.

Hobble skirt created by Paul Poiret.

1920 - 1930

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Fashion in the 1920s was overtaken by flappers so the knee-length skirts and short strap dresses were common.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Tweed suits.

Knickers

University style.

1930 - 1940

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

1939 - clothes became functional as women had to help out, they also took a military uniform. Skirts were shortened to the knee and blouses were more masculine.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Suits with broad shoulders and slim waist.

Gangster style.

Jumper vest.

1940 - 1950

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Women were expected to be feminine, clothing was made with the least fabric possible and they used accesories to renew the outfits.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Young men wore colourful buttoned waistcoats with pockets and light trousers. Artificial fibres were used. Military clothes were common because of the war.

1950 - 1960

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

The focus was on the hips and women did not go outside without makeup or jewellery. Oversize jackets and beaded cardigans were really popular.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Suits: figure-hugging, and skinny trousers, white shirts and narrow, almost unpatterned ties.

Rebellious style: casual look of white T-shirts, jeans, leather jackets and slicked back hair.

1960 - 1970

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Hippie style: jeans, colourful flowers and prints, skirts...

MEN'S CLOTHING

Nehru jacket: buttoned up, straight cut and box or Mao collar.

Hippie style: jeans, colourful flowers and wild prints...

1970 - 1980

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Disco fashion.

Glam rock style.

Denim jeans.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Disco fashion.

Trousers.

1980 - 1990

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Sporty style.

New wave style.

80s Fashion: shoulder pads, slim waist, colourful clothing, chains, etc...

MEN'S CLOTHING

80s Fashion: polyester or nylon jackets in bright, neon colours, with elasticated cuffs and waistbands..

Androgynous style.

Student style.

Rap style.

1990 - 2000

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

Grunge style: ripped jeans, baggy clothes, worn out jackets...

90s Fashion.

Hip-Hop style: baggy pants, caps, huge jewellry...

MEN'S CLOTHING

Minimalist style.

90s Fashion.

Hip-Hop style: baggy pants, caps, huge jewellry...

21st Century

FAST FASHION

Fast fashion is characterized by the mass production of clothing at low prices and in a short period of time. This trend has led to over-consumption and often a lack of quality clothing. Many brands or online shops appear, like Shein.

SUSTAINABLE FASHION

Sustainable fashion focuses on producing clothing and accessories that are ethical, eco-friendly and socially responsible. This trend has led to an increased awareness of the environmental and social impact of clothing production. Some brands could be: Patagonia, Pangaia or VEJA.

URBAN FASHION

Urban fashion is characterized by comfortable and functional clothing, such as sweatshirts, sneakers and sportswear. This trend has been influenced by hip-hop culture and street fashion. Some brands could be: Stüssy or Adidas.

MEN'S FASHION

Today's man decides more than ever to abandon boring trends to look for an aesthetic in line with his way of life: hipster, sport, streetstyle and the renewed classic more topical than ever.

ANDROGYNOUS AND UNISEX FASHION

The 21st Century is characterized by a movement with an appeal for clothes to be non-gender specific. This means anyone can wear anything they like. The biggest icons of this movement go from Prince to recently Jaden Smith.

FASHION FROM THE 2000S TO NOW

The end.

England

The suit consisted of:
  • Shirt: white with a stand-up collar surrounded by a handkerchief with a white bow.
  • Jacket: tailcoat or the frock coat. These were usually made of wool or cotton.
  • Vest: the most colourful part of the outfit and many were richly embroidered.
  • Pants: they were tight-fitting and were usually chosen in a different colour to the jacket.

Ruffled blouses

Became more baggy with time and they were made with colourful prints.

Parachute pants

Verdugos

It seems to have been invented by Joan of Portugal to occulte the infidelities of her husband, the King of Castile, Henry IV "The Impotent", and was based on hoops sewn to the outside of the skirt. This was also the name given to the set of skirt armed with flared hoops.

CUCHILLADAS

These were tears in the fabric of the garments through which the lining was removed. This ornamentation was adopted for women, men and children.

Ruffled blouses

Became more baggy with time and they were made with colourful prints.

Parachute pants

Aviator glasses.

Chanel
  • Black as elegance colour.
  • Biés cut.

Designer for women and girls clothing. Her career took off in 1903. Her most famous line of clothing was made in 1909.

Jeanne Lanvine

Invented the dress of the century, the Delphos. He opted for simplcity.

Mariano Fortuny

He moved away from corsets, opting for Hellenic style dresses, and exotic fabrics.

Paul Poiret

Mod style

Use of slim-fit suits, structured trousers, long-sleeved shirts, slim ties and clothes inspired by Italian fashion trends.

Indumentaria masculina

  • Falda corta.
  • Túnica estilo griego hasta el tobillo.
  • Lacerna: capa de lana corta.
  • Tebenna: capa semicircular drapeada.

It was worn with both felt hats and top hats. It was single or double breasted, with or without pockets, but always with a very elegant cut.

Chesterfield coat

Raincoat. Informal (without lapels, with or without hood) or formal (with lapels).

Mackintosh coat

The greatcoats were very elegant coats with which the gentleman wore silk handkerchief as a tie, top hat and walking stick.

Greatcoat

A type of neckline was the "decolletage", which was very pronounced and showed part of the chest.

Neckline

in addition to being tight-fitting, could be false and loose

Sleeves

Used alternative materials such as metals, plastic or paper.

Rabanne

Presented the miniskirt to society.

Mary Quant

Created the trouser suit.

YSL

Ruffled blouses

Became more baggy with time and they were made with colourful prints.

Parachute pants

Spain and France

The suit had 3 parts:
  • Shirt.
  • Vest or jacket on top of the shirt.
  • Breeches.
SARONG

Primera falda primitiva, consistía en un trozo de tela enrollada a la cintura.

Otro tipo de indumentaria:

  • Telas drapeadas al hombro.
  • Pantalones (para montar a caballo).
  • Prendas con mangas.

They were closed collars made of linen, often decorated with lace, starched and a metal support that held it parallel to the shoulders.

Earliered band

It usually matched the cuffs and was decorated with lace.

Falling band

VS

Christian Dior

In 1947 Dior created the NEW LOOK which was:

  • Tight waist made by a corset.
  • Loose skirt.
Frigio

Gorro de origen griego que podían utilizar.

Designer for women and girls clothing. Her career took off in 1903. Her most famous line of clothing was made in 1909.

Jeanne Lanvine

Invented the dress of the century, the Delphos. He opted for simplcity.

Mariano Fortuny

He moved away from corsets, opting for Hellenic style dresses, and exotic fabrics.

Paul Poiret

FRANCE

SPAIN

Vivienne Westwood

Punk style became popular during this time too.

  • Chains
  • Safety pins
  • Mostly red, black and white.
  • Spike-styled and sometimes bleached hair.

Túnica interior blanca con mangas largas y estrechas. Dalmática: túnica con incrustaciones de piedras preciosas, tejidos de oro y bordados . Toga Capa: rectangular, semicircular o circular.

Masculino

Túnica interior hasta los tobillos. Vestido tipo túnica más corto. Maniaki: collar decorado con perlas y piedras preciosas. Palla o podían usar velo.

Femenino

VS